Showing posts with label explore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label explore. Show all posts

Monday, October 7, 2019

Messy Suitcase Video: Why Guadalajara?


Beto (Bob) is developing his video editing skills, and working on putting the many videos he has made over the past year of traveling in Europe and then Mexico up onto the Messy Suitcase YouTube Channel! 

After toting his GoPro all over Mexico, and now Vermont, plus the drives back and forth, he's just learning how to edit the footage, so please be patient, and feel to comment with words of encouragement.  Each video will get better, and they will be packed with fascinating info and our illuminating comments and observations.

We'll hope you'll follow our the Messy Suitcase YouTube Channel,  and ring the bell to be notified as we put more videos up. We are also open to new ideas!

Enjoy the video Why Guadalajara? 


Why Guadalajara? video



Tuesday, May 14, 2019

Cristo Rey: The Heart of Mexico

Today we traveled to the corazon (heart) of Mexico to see the iconic statue of Cristo Rey. This imposing bronze statue of Christ the King, 75 feet tall and rising 8,461 feet above sea level at Mexico’s geographical center, looms from atop a mountain above the town of Silao called El Cubillo del Cubilete.

Cristo Rey

The monumental Christ of the Mountain was created in art deco style by artist Nicholas Mariscal in 1944 to honor the struggle of Christians during a period of religious persecution in the early 1900s.
In the words of former Mexican President Vicente Fox, the statue serves as a "rebuke to the suppressors of religious freedom" who sought to quash the Church during the persecution of Christians in Mexico during the first half of the twentieth century.

A smaller previous monument was dynamited in 1928 by the anti-religious (and particularly anti-Catholic) regime of President Plutarco Elías Calles, as part of his mission to kill Christian rebels and destroy all Christian symbols during the nation's critical "Cristero War" when state atheism was enforced.  (Source: Wikipedia)

A Holy Shrine for Mexicans


Few Americans have even heard of Cristo Rey and El Cubillo del Cubilete, but to Mexicans, this is a holy place where many make a pilgrimage. At the foot of the statue is basilica in the shape of a globe where pilgrims visit throughout the year, especially in November, when Catholics celebrate the Feast of Christ the King. This elegant sanctuary, with its enormous crown of thorns encircling the ceiling and its gold-coated crown in the center, is one of the most visited churches in Mexico. (Unfortunately, I couldn’t stroll through it and take pictures because I was wearing shorts, which are forbidden attire in the sanctuary.)

Sanctuary

Crown of thorns

Golden crown for Christ the King


Incredible Vistas


The 360-degree panoramic view from the base of the monument is truly spectacular. Guanajuato is having an extremely dry May, and we could see a number of forest fires in the distant mountains. In fact, on the drive to the shrine, we came within a few feet of one. Learn more. 

Side Trips


On the way, we stopped to eat lunch on the covered veranda of a beautiful hacienda surrounded by grape vines called Jesus Maria, which served up wonderful wine, pasta, salads and seafood. 


Our family and Javier enjoying dinner

We also visited the village of La Luz, where we stopped into the fascinating, ancient church named Maria de la Luz.


Because this is a big mining region,
the crucifix had miners' helmets, tools and rocks at its base.

Thank you, Javier!



The tour was conducted by Javier Salazar, general manager of Casa Estrella Wellness Center, where we are staying. He made for a very knowledgeable and sometimes devilishly funny tour guide! 

Sunday, May 12, 2019

We have a new name!

"Life is Short, the World is Big" is our philosophy, our passion, our lifestyle, our motivation, our inspiration.

But as a blog title, it was just TOO LONG!

So we are in the process of changing the name of the blog to Messy Suitcase! After all, we are living out of a few suitcases stuffed into the back of our truck (along with three musical instruments, three cats and our youngest child, Lex, who is on a gap year from college). OK, we let the cats and Lex sit in the back seat, but you get the point!

Every few months, we pack up those suitcases -- often with "help" from the cats -- and head for our next destination, where we again live out of messy suitcases!

Connect to Messy Suitcase on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest and YouTube -- and watch for our YouTube channel to get a lot busier.

Thanks for supporting Bob and Lisa in our travels ... because life is short & the world is big!

Do you recognize Ellie Smoit, the Adventure Cat, in our new logo?


Wednesday, May 1, 2019

Leaving Tlaquepaque & Guadalajara



It’s time to leave Tlaquepaque and move on to our next destination, Guanajuato.

We’ve been here nearly 4 months, a little longer than we planned to stay in any one place, but wanted to have a familiar, reasonably accessible place for Aryk to call home on their Spring Break from Keele University in England.

With only a few days left, we’ve been going over our lists of things we wanted to do here and we’ve whittled it down to just a few.

We’re Sad to Go


Both Lisa and I are feeling a little sad about moving on. There is a lot to like about Tlaquepaque and Guadalajara. We love Tlaquepaque’s colorful, artistic character. We love its relaxed, friendly vibe. We love living within easy walking distance of the TLQ town square, Jardin Hidalgo, and all of the energy, activities and food options there. Lisa has recently started making Mexican friends. 










We'll miss the regular routines that drive the city -- the water guy's cries of "a-gUAAAAA!," the Zeta Gas truck's song, the ringing bell of the trash men, the double chiming of the church clocks in Jardin Hidalgo every 15 minutes around the clock, the early-morning cacophony of dogs and roosters, the  music in the streets (whether a Mariachi band or a single hombre singing acapella), the busy mercados (marketplaces) and tianguis (pop-up markets) with countless people in your face trying to sell you their products.

We love all of the activities available in Guadalajara and the fact that a subway from our neighborhood to Zapopan, on the other side of Guadalajara, is scheduled to open sometimes in 2020. And with a new road under construction, Guadalajara could soon be just two and a half hours from the Pacific coast.




There are some things in Tlaquepaque that aren’t perfect. The running, bike riding and our apartment are barely acceptable, but our home's location has been perfect for accessing the town square. We’re definitely going to miss being here. We’ve even started discussing that this area may be a place we want to come back to and spend even more time getting to know, perhaps living in Guadalajara proper. But first, we need to experience more of Mexico.

In the meantime, we’re busy revisiting our favorite places and restaurants for one last time.


Our loyalty to Guadalajara won us GDLt-shirts
at a promo event in Lake Chapala last weekend!

 Today, it’s on to Guanajuato!


Monday, April 22, 2019

Learning Spanish in Guadalajara, Part 2

There didn’t seem to be a lot of structure at Guadalajara Language Center, but somehow it worked.!

We weren’t given books, the instructors had some notes and only occasionally referred to a book they had. It seemed that there was some coordination between the morning and afternoon instructors, but only in an overlap of general concepts. It wasn’t a direct continuation of what had been previously taught. Each week we could be in class with different people, so some weeks we were ahead of the other people in the class and others we were slightly behind. You wouldn’t expect it, but for some reason this organization worked. After a while, since we were there so long, it seemed like we progressed and other students were shoehorned into our classes.

Excellent instructors


I thought the instructors were very good. Classes combined grammar with conversation, and content was flexible, sparked by what we did last night, our weekend plans, the weather, Mexican traditions. Sometimes there was a lesson on a specific subject, such as the simple past tense or personal pronouns. But other days, the class might consist almost entirely of free-form conversation, during which we learned a lot about the history and culture of Mexico.

For most of our time at Guadalajara Language Center, we had Monica for a teacher in the morning and Edith in the afternoon. Monica was a raucous, loud, animated woman and an outstanding teacher. She was the kind of woman you would want to hang out with at a party. Edith was tall and refined, more reserved, but eventually revealed a wicked sense of humor. 
 
Monica explaining pronouns

Edith watching a lively discussion

After four hours of Spanish every day, we were pretty tired. Many other people who came down for two or three weeks spent additional time studying, but we knew we had eight weeks of classes, so we didn’t feel like we had to jam everything in. Besides, we wanted to also experience GDL and TLQ. In fact, at the end of the first four weeks, we felt like we needed some time to review everything we had learned so we took a week off.  Lex, on the other hand, liked the school so much that she continued for the full eight weeks, and then did two hours a day for three more.

Lex in class

Lots of work left to do


Our official studies have ended. We’ve been exposed to the grammar basics and have certainly expanded our vocabulary. We can get by. We can understand the basics when speaking with Mexicans who speak clearly and not too fast. We can have conversations with Uber drivers and market people. But we know we have a lot more work to do. The Department of State’s Foreign Service Institute’s School of Language Studies says that to obtain a Professional Working Proficiency (Speaking-3/Reading-3 on a scale of 1 - 5) takes anywhere between 600-750 hours of classroom study. We have spent 160 hours in class so far. Granted, we did come in with some basics, but probably at best we’re 1/3 of the way to where we want to be. We know what areas we need to address, and we have found other resources to continue our study independently.

Our plan is to continue studying on our own and supplement that with several sessions of conversation each week with private Spanish tutors. As they say here in Mexico, “poco a poco” -- or little by little!

All in all, we enjoyed our time at the school and found it worthwhile. At some point in time, we will probably take some time to go back to school, perhaps doing the monthlong summer program at the University of Guanajuato, but not this year!


Saturday, April 20, 2019

Learning Spanish in Guadalajara, Part 1

Our first priority in starting our life in Mexico was to learn the Spanish language. If we are going to spend the next few years living in countries where Spanish is the primary language spoken, we felt we needed to get a good grasp of the language early on.

And while we had lived in Puerto Rico for a time in the mid-90s and were not Spanish beginners, we knew that we had a long way to go before we would feel comfortable with the language. We want to obtain a level of proficiency so that we can develop friendships and truly feel part of Mexico (and other Spanish speaking countries we choose to live in or visit).  Knowing the language is also important logistically, to allow us to navigate daily tasks such as asking where a bathroom is and understand the answer, being able to order food at a street “puesto” or in a restaurant, asking for directions, buying groceries, paying for items at stores, going to the doctor’s office, and more.

Before we left the United States, we both studied Spanish independently, using books we still had around, a CD series and an app called Duolingo, and we decided to immerse ourselves in learning the language as soon as we arrived in Mexico. We chose to attend a language school in Guadalajara (GDL), Mexico’s second largest city, in the central region of Mexico. Like most Americans, we had never been to the region, spending our previous trips on Mexican coasts for beach vacations. This would give us an opportunity to begin our learning process while exploring a new area.

Guadalajara Language Center


We chose the Guadalajara Language Center (GLC), which is actually located in Tlaquepaque, a town at the southern edge of Guadalajara known for its pottery and ceramics. In fact, our apartment is less than quarter-mile from the city boundary and we routinely run in GDL. The school offered several language programs, including an advertised CLEP prep class, Lexie could take and get college credit for. We signed up for the immersion program, where we would take 4 hours a day of classes for 8 weeks, Monday through Friday. We took written placement exams and were a bit surprised that we all tested higher than expected.

Once we arrived in Tlaquepaque, Lisa and I were ready to go first thing Monday morning, while Lex decided to take a week off to recover from the long trip from the east coast of the United States before starting. The location of our apartment was perfect, just a seven-minute walk from the school. Daily classes ran from 9 -11 AM and then 11:30 AM-1:30 PM, after which we walked about 3 minutes to the Tlaquepaque main square to choose from the food trucks and local eateries.


The school, run by an easygoing Dutchman named Wouter Stout who is married to a Mexican woman, is located in an unassuming two-story blue building on a street corner just two blocks from the Centro Historico. It contains five small classrooms, a little kitchen for brewing coffee each day for grateful students, a large hallway with a couple of computers for students’ use, and a larger gathering room with a couple of couches and chairs, and Wouter’s desk in a corner.

Wouter and his dog, Estrella
Every week a new group of students arrives from all over the world, though they seem to be clustered on the California coastline and western Canada, probably because of easy flights to Guadalajara. Some stay for only a week or two, some for the winter, so new placements need to be made every week, and the first thing Wouter does on Mondays is assign students to classes based on their tests and hope for the best. If it’s not a fit, changes can be made after the first session on Monday. In the mornings we had one instructor and in the afternoon a different instructor. Wouter also provides resources for doing other activities to help discover the area, including organizing a weekly hike into the Barranca (canyon), and providing students with info about Lucha Libre, salsa and bachata dance lessons, a walking tour of Tlaquepaque, and more.

Lex with the GLC resident dog, Estrella (Star)

Ay, Caramba!


Our first day was rough. We were placed together, which was fortunate, but in too high a level for our comprehension skills, and Spanish words just flew over our heads. Fortunately, during the break adjustments were made, and we were placed in an appropriate level class and could get down to the business of learning.

Interesting Classmates


During our eight weeks taking classes, we usually had just one other person in our class, and at most a total of four. Since we often shared stories from our lives in Spanish conversations, we got to know some of those people fairly well. Everyone had an interesting story as to why they were there. Aaron, from Napa Valley, was our classmate for several weeks. He worked for a small vineyard and wanted to be able to communicate better with the Mexican workers when he traveled. He also had financial incentive from his company, so he immersed himself in and out of class, living in a homestay so he could speak with his hosts in Spanish and enjoy home-cooked Mexican meals. Shireen, from Boulder, CO, spent winters in an RV with her partner in a small beach community called Guayabita on the west coast of Mexico. Jack, a gay librarian from Vancouver, talked about the drag shows he attended at home and the Mexican friends he partied with in Tlaquepaque. Eva was a retired English teacher who spent several weeks in Mexico. David worked on a boat that took people on National Geographic eco-tours from Alaska to South America. Francine, originally from Iran, was a scientist-engineer studying Spanish between jobs. We met retirees and backpackers, and a young Catholic couple with seven kids who were starting life as missionaries in Ecuador.

Our buddy Eva
Find out more about our Spanish learning experience in Part 2!

Tuesday, December 18, 2018

Resetting our Marriage

Bob's Perspective


Lisa and I have been married 23 years. Our first few years of marriage were all about our careers, and the past 21 years we have been focused on dealing with the challenges of our two kids (if you know us and our kids you know what I’m talking about).

Like many marriages, over that time, we’ve been focused on our kids, our jobs and our home. And, like many other people, that left little time for us as a couple. Even with stopping working and starting our European trip it was rush, rush, rush – we had a mountain of tasks that needed to be accomplished.

For me, however, things finally slowed down when I went to Sorrento by myself and Lisa stayed in Naples with Lexie and her relatives. It rained most of the second day I was there and I didn’t really have much to do. I began to realize how much we had been through and how lucky I was to be with someone who shared the same excitement about the adventure on which we were about to embark. I realized how lucky I was and I committed to myself to let her know that, to let her know how much I appreciated being with her and looked forward to spending time as just a couple. (Disclaimer: We really enjoy being with Lexie for this year and our visits with Aryk, but there is just the new opportunity for so much “us” time.)

View from the top of the London Eye

When we got back together in Naples, we talked about this and she told me that she had been thinking the same thing, that we had an excellent opportunity to essentially reset our relationship. We had the opportunity to throw away some of the conflicts we’ve had over time and really just enjoy one another going forward.

We’ll never have a fully carefree life, but we’re both committed to working hard to enjoy one another and our life together going forward.

Our trip to Europe was worth it just for this!

Together in Hamburg at the top of the St. Michaelis Church Tower

____________________________________________________


Lisa's Perspective


For me, it started long before we left Colorado, in summer 2017, when we made the decision to retire early and travel,  and started planning the next phase of our lives. We spent a lot of weekend hot tub mornings discussing what our plan would be. I think for many couples, they retire but have the same habits they had before, and that can lead to dissatisfaction or boredom. Planning a new life as sojourners opened us up to a lot of new conversations and gave our relationship a new dimension.

To prepare, we traveled to Mexico several times, enjoying each other's company as we explored different communities as potential future domiciles.

To meet in the middle of our diverse interests, Bob mentioned that he would like to try yoga, which I practice, so we would have something to do in common, and I said I would be happy to hike more with him. We also started doing more running and bike riding together, which took us full circle back to the genesis of our relationship - we met through a multisport club, the New York Flyers, in the early 90s.

Hydra Island in Greece
We have both started learning Spanish to facilitate our lives in Mexico. We are talking about taking dancing lessons, trying new foods, hiking new mountains, discovering new beaches, making new friends, tasting tequilas, learning a new language together.

It's exciting!

In the Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik

Monday, October 29, 2018

Italy, Part 1: Naples

Walking in my Grandfather’s Footsteps


I have one thing to say to my grandfather, Domenico Troisi: Thank you so much for leaving Naples!

A few hours spent around Via Cesare Rossaroll in Naples, Italy, where Domenic lived as a child before immigrating to the United States in 1907, has made me eternally grateful that he came to the United States. This impoverished, filthy, decaying pesthole of a neighborhood, teeming with loud people and louder cars, narrow streets and narrower alleys, ancient buildings with paint peeling off, blowing litter and dog shit everywhere, is beyond depressing.

And this godforsaken alley is where my grandfather lived with his father and two brothers, first in a dingy flat with a shared toilet outside in the hall, and later in a small room separated by a curtain from his father’s “magazino,” or tailoring shop and store combined.

The Memory Book
Domenic described this neighborhood in his 50th Anniversary Memory Book, published in 1970. But his optimistic style does not capture the over-stimulating, exhausting reality of his Neapolitan living situation. Fortunately, my cousin Janice Carapellucci and sister Julie Holm both spent considerable hours and effort researching and digging to locate the home where he lived and the chapels and other landmarks he referenced in his memoir, so that a small group of Troisi cousins could make a pilgrimage to Italy and back to the place from whence we came.

Naples


I'll be blunt: Naples is no tourist town. It’s working-class, gritty, loud and obnoxious. It reminds me of some parts of NYC and helps me understand how the Big Apple, with so many Italian immigrants, came to develop some of its pushy, in-your-face character. Walking from the train station this morning, first I was hit by multiple flailing elbows while walking the few blocks to get there, then I was almost deafened by a whole line of cars leaning on their horns to express their outrage at some poor sap holding up the line in front of them. This could have happened just as easily on the Lower East Side of Manhattan.

Life off Via Cesar Rosaroll


But back to Domenic. First, his family lived, as his brother D. Paul described in the memoir, in a small apartment: “Our apartment was called a flat, with community toilet out in the hall; the central heating consisted of our cooking stove in which we burned charcoal when we could afford it. We scavenged kindling at the curb market where we picked up discarded boxes and crates.”

Domenic's alley
After his mother died in 1906, this Spartan lifestyle deteriorated, according to Domenic: “My father gave up the apartment and put what furniture he could salvage (in) back of the store, dividing the room with a curtain across the entire width. He felt that by so doing he could take better care of his three boys. Many of the meals consisted of pans of spaghetti, or paste e faggioli, which were supplied by a restaurant in Porta Capuana in exchange for tailoring and clothes my father made for the family of the restaurant owner. I cooked most of the meals on a small kerosene stove in back of the store.” 

He was only 12.

Transported Back in Time


Walking in the neighborhood where Domenic spent his childhood, I felt transported back in time 110 years. It seems like nothing has changed, except that there are cars and motorbikes clogging the streets now instead of horses and carriages and pushcarts.

Domenic's door
People still live in the same squalid conditions, with the addition of indoor plumbing. Clotheslines with sheets, socks and pants still flutter in the wind from balconies above the alleyways. Homemade Roman Catholic shrines to the Virgin Mary and assorted saints can be found in every alcove, with some large ones dominating street corners, festooned with plastic flowers and Holy Water, better maintained than any of the nearby homes. People still live their lives in public with their doors wide open. You can look in as you walk by and see an extended family sharing one small, dark living space, a small kitchen behind, people hanging outside the door, smoking.

The whole place probably smells better, thanks to modern plumbing and the absence of horse manure in the streets (although there was plenty of dog poop). Otherwise, it's largely unchanged.

Where We Came From and What It Means


Seeing where you came from can make you even more grateful about where you are now. In the decision by Domenic’s father, Beniamino, to board the Steamship Bulgaria, we dodged a bullet. No wonder a squalid tenement on the Upper East Side, where Domenic, his father and two brothers lived with his uncle’s family after they arrived in New York in 1907, "was almost a luxury for us.”

Domenic, Donato and Dante (L-R)
No wonder Domenic was so driven to get ahead, to get educated, to learn English, to improve his living situations, to build that glorious house on Vernon Avenue in Williamsport, PA, where my mother and her nine brothers and sisters grew up.

Walking in Domenic’s footsteps was physically draining and emotionally exhausting. I’m glad I did it. And I am really, really glad he left. 

Grazie, Nonno.


Wednesday, October 17, 2018

Spain, Part 1: Or is it Catalonia?

Next destination: Spain!

We spent several days in Barcelona on our way to Reus to visit the family of our exchange student, Laia.

Well ... I know I said we were in Spain, but Laia’s family would tell you we were in Catalonia.
They are separatists, like many in this province in the northeast corner of the country who are seeking independence from Spain. Since I’m not a historian, I will refer you to a nice article from the BBC explaining this political crisis “in 300 words.” (We are of course on the CatalanTeam.)

Source: BBC News
We saw signs of this conflict everywhere.

There are two official languages in Catalonia: Catalan and Spanish. More fiercely loyal Catalan enterprises would have signs and menus only in Catalan, which seems to be a mish-mash of Spanish, French and Italian. Most people in the city speak some English, although this was more of a challenge further afield.

Spanish National Day celebrants near Placa de Catalunya
We were in Barcelona on Oct. 12 for National Day or Fiesta Nacional de Espana in Spain. It was a national holiday and people celebrated with huge rallies in the central square in Barcelona, Placa de Catalunya. But separatists rebuffed the event, working as usual and displaying their version of the Spanish flag, which has yellow stripes, from their balconies.

Anyway, back to sightseeing …

The weather

The weather, mid-60s to mid-70s in mid-October, was balmy compared to frigid Iceland, though we did need to keep jackets on hand for the occasional rain showers.

We will share a few tidbits about our days in Barcelona and Reus in the next couple of blogs.

Next ... Part 2: Barcelona

Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Germany

Our five days in Germany were mostly about being with family, but we mixed some tourism in, visiting the city of Hamburg a couple of days.

Pinneberg


My brother Patrick, his German wife Ines, and their two children live in Pinneberg, a suburb of Hamburg, Germany’s second largest city. We stayed in an Airbnb house a couple miles from their home and it was truly amazing - large, clean, pretty, and only 61 euros a night. The local forest was only a block and a half away and we had a lovely run there. The nearby Hotel Cap Polonio served up some of the best French fries I have ever tasted – crispy on the outside, most inside, not oily, perfectly salted. They were accompanied by mayonnaise and ketchup, the German way.


Pinneberg has a beautiful Rosengarten, which was a nice destination for a short walk with small children. The roses were in bloom and a group of old men were playing bocce.

We ate a lot of bratwurst, currywurst and other kids of wurst. (It was the best!) Also a lot of potatoes, a huge staple in Germany. And lots of brochen (bread). The breakfast pastries were to die for.

Hamburg


Hamburg, located on the Elbe River, is Germany’s largest port and commercial center. It boasts a lot of energy, style, music and culture. Its many waterways and canals make it feel a little like Venice.

The Harbor area is huge. We took a harbor boat ride up the Elbe and saw marvels of German nautical engineering, including a humongous dry dock and several Navy ships under construction. We also saw Hamburg’s theater area, reachable by ferryboats decorated to match the shows. Currently playing: The Lion King and Mary Poppins, among others.




We walked through the Old Elbe Tunnel, under the Elbe River, which used to transport port and shipyard workers but is now an interesting stroll to get a fabulous view of Hamburg from across the Harbor (Hafen). Watching cyclists and rollerbladers navigating through the crowds of families and tourists out for a stroll is very entertaining. The elevators in this structure were massive. 


We went up to the observation deck of the brand-new opera house, the ElbPhilharmonie, known by the nickname Elphy, for glorious river views.  



We rode the elevator to the top of St. Michaelis Church for awesome 360-degree views of the city of Hamburg.





We visited the St. Nikolai Memorial (Nikolaikirche), which was bombed out during WWII and never rebuilt. The front façade remains but the interior is an open shell, left as a tribute to all affected by war. The website calls it “Hamburg's central place of remembrance for the victims of war and tyranny of the years 1933-1945.”


German Food


For Bob, who lived in Germany for 4 ½ years in the 1980s, being back in Germany was like coming home. And a lot of it revolved about food and drink. He wanted to have a German pilsner and pommes (French fries) in every outdoor restaurant in the city of Hamburg! He wanted to eat all his favorite German pastries – apfelstruedel, pretzels, franzbrochen – as well as currywurst and spezi (Coke and German Fanta) from an imbiss (casual, quick restaurant).


That’s it for Germany. On to Barcelona!