Showing posts with label Guadalajara. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Guadalajara. Show all posts

Sunday, February 23, 2020

Locking our Love Forever with Love Locks


Happy Valentine's Day! We wanted to celebrate the annual day of love by sharing the story of our love locks.

A couple of weeks ago, Bob and I attached a little gold padlock to the new Love Lock Bridge near the Riverwalk in San Antonio to lock our love forever, then kissed and took a selfie to mark the occasion. Again. On our lock was written in Sharpie “RG & LH,” inside a hand-drawn heart pierced by Cupid’s arrow. It was actually a chain-link fence along the river, but it was covered with hundreds of locks of other couples declaring their undying love.



It was the 15th time we have declared our forever love by placing a lock on a bridge. Normally we are not super-sentimental people, but love locks are a ritual we have grown to cherish during our travels, leaving our mark on bridges and walls all over the United States, Europe and Mexico (so far).


The 1st Lock: Paris


It all started in the summer of 2016, when I was planning to accompany Gavin’s scout troop on a week in the romantic city of Paris. Before we left, Bob gave me a padlock and asked me to write our initials on it and hang it on the Pont des Arts Bridge, which was famous for having so many lovers’ padlocks affixed to it that it groaned under the weight, and authorities had had to cut them off. He had seen the bridge during a weekend he spent alone in Paris during a business trip, and thought it would be nice to have our own lock there.

Surprised and touched by this rare sentimentality, I happily obliged. After the troop set off for the next leg of their trip, Switzerland, I went down to the River Seine and searched for the love locks. The city had decommissioned the Pont des Arts Bridge in 2015 because of the weight of the locks, but they were all around it, thousands of lovers’ padlocks tumbling down the bannisters and onto the railings of the river walls beyond. Across the river from where I stood was a magnificent view of the Louvre. I locked our padlock, blew a kiss to Bob across the ocean, and took pictures. I’m sure if the locks get too heavy, authorities will cut them off again. But until then, RG & LH will grace the Pont Neuf on the River Seine in Paris.


It was a grand, and small, gesture of love. It felt good. It made me think about why I had married this man, what we had experienced together, and how special our life was.

Hamburg, Germany


Three years later, we were visiting my brother Patrick in Hamburg, Germany, and walking along the Elbe River when we saw another bridge covered with lovers’ locks. We didn’t realize the tradition had expanded beyond Paris. Since we were leaving the country the next day, we went and found a hardware store to buy a lock, wrote RG & LH with a Sharpie and enlisted Patrick to hang it for us. A few weeks later, he sent a photo of our lock on the bridge. (Thanks, Pat!)


And with that, we were off, searching for love lock bridges, or creating our own, everywhere we went. While on a five-week tour through Europe, we hung locks everywhere.

London, England


In London, we strolled across the Jubilee Bridge, a pedestrian bridge, and listened to a street musician playing Caribbean drums while we snapped our padlock in a spot all its own and kissed above the Thames River.



Rome, Italy


After a long day of sightseeing as a family in Rome, when Gavin’s and my feet were aching from miles of walking, Bob trekked back in the rain to hang a lock from an iron bannister on a bridge crossing the Tiber River. 


Sorrento, Italy


Farther south in Sorrento, on a solo weekend trip while I was off doing genealogy searching with some Italian cousins, Bob discovered an iron fence with love locks along the Mediterranean coastline about a mile from his hotel during his morning run. He spent the afternoon searching for a padlock and a Sharpie, but a torrential downpour forced him to wait to return until the next morning, when a break in the rain gave him time to quickly walk there and fix the lock in place before heading for the train station.


Hydra, Greece


In Greece, during a daylong boat trip, Hydra, an idyllic fishing village where bleached-white houses climb up the mountainside from the azure Mediterranean, offered herself as a entrancingly scenic host to our love lock.



Ludlow, Vermont


The tradition continued when we returned to North America. First, we affixed a love lock to a bridge in Ludlow, Vermont, where we have our second home.



New Orleans, Louisiana


Then we headed down to live in Mexico for the first six months of 2019. During a two-night on break the road trip south, we took the streetcar to hang a lock on a chain-link fence in New Orleans, under a banner that read Love Locks NOLA and in front of the Eiffel Society, a club built from parts of a former Eiffel Tower eatery.   



Leon, Mexico


In Mexico, the first city we stayed in was Leon, which had a love locks bridge at one end of the Causeway of Heroes, a wide pedestrian walkway that serves as the gateway into the old city, and we put our lock through the padlock of another lock at the top. The bridge looked down upon a highway, with mountains in the distance.



Lake Chapala, Mexico


We never found a good spot in Tlaquepaque, where we lived for four months, or Guadalajara, the city next door. But we visited beautiful Lake Chapala, half an hour south, for a day trip and walked out to the end of a fishing pier to hang our lock on a rusted turquoise railing overlooking Mexico’s largest freshwater lake. On the way, we had been stopped by announcers for a local radio station who were broadcasting live, and thus posed for the obligatory selfie in our new orange Guadalajara T-shirts.



Guanajuato, Mexico


By far the most interesting place to hang our lock was the magical town of Guanajuato, where there’s an alley so narrow that people can kiss from across two balconies. There’s a tragic legend of a young man who was killed for stealing a kiss from the daughter of a rich man. We put up our lock and kissed across the alley. (Fortunately, Bob survived.)




Montreal, Canada


We lived in Vermont during summer 2019, and took a couple of trips to Montreal, Canada, hanging one lock on a bridge overlooking Gay Village and the other on a small bridge in the main pedestrian area along the St. Lawrence River, looking out at a huge Ferris Wheel.



The Farm, Cascade, Pennsylvania


When we visited The Farm, the homestead in the mountains of Central Pennsylvania where Lisa’s paternal grandmother grew up, we hung a love lock from the rusty metal rope that secures the entrance to the old lane.



Thwarted


We were occasionally thwarted in our efforts to declare our love by hanging public padlocks. In the beach town of Cambrils, Spain, there was no official Love Locks bridge, so we scouted the promenade along the ocean but never found a spot where we could thread a padlock. There was an official Love Locks spot in Barcelona, but we didn’t have time to visit it. We have looked several times while in Burlington, VT, but have not yet found a spot for a padlock.

Part of the tradition of the Love Locks is to throw the keys into the river to seal your eternal love, but we don’t do that because we don’t think that particular gesture of affection is good for the health of the fish or the river. We still hold all the keys to each other’s hearts.

Up Next ...


We have just arrived in Mexico City and will be looking for a place to hang our 16th lock. We’ll keep you posted!




By Lisa and Bob

Monday, October 7, 2019

Messy Suitcase Video: Why Guadalajara?


Beto (Bob) is developing his video editing skills, and working on putting the many videos he has made over the past year of traveling in Europe and then Mexico up onto the Messy Suitcase YouTube Channel! 

After toting his GoPro all over Mexico, and now Vermont, plus the drives back and forth, he's just learning how to edit the footage, so please be patient, and feel to comment with words of encouragement.  Each video will get better, and they will be packed with fascinating info and our illuminating comments and observations.

We'll hope you'll follow our the Messy Suitcase YouTube Channel,  and ring the bell to be notified as we put more videos up. We are also open to new ideas!

Enjoy the video Why Guadalajara? 


Why Guadalajara? video



Monday, June 17, 2019

Missing the US, Missing Mexico, Part 2


Things We Won't Miss About Mexico

Despite our obviously huge affection for Mexico, there are some things we won’t miss, including:

·        All the beggars and people missing limbs
·        Having to carry small change to use public toilets
·        No seats on the public toilets
·        No (sometimes) paper in public toilets
·        Having to carry toilet paper everywhere, just in case
·        Poor WiFi
·        Random power outages
·        Having people come up to us in public spaces or restaurants trying to sell us stuff
·        Being stalked by salesmen or women in stores or galleries
·        Occasionally paying the price for bad street food with four or five days of stomach discomfort

·        Creepy crawlies, especially:
o   The large frequency of spider sightings
o   Massive bugs, some on the ground, some on the ceiling, some flying
o   Cockroaches
o   Scorpions

·        Aggressive street dogs on our running route in Guanajuato
·        Dodging dog poop on the ground while walking in any town
·        The occasional stench of sewage while driving through Guanajuato
·        Car-eating topes (speed bumps), often unmarked
·        How hard it is to ride our bikes

Riding on the Via RecreActiva Sunday mornings in Guadalajara,
when closed roadways created our only opportunity
to get out on two wheels
I think that’s it! As we come up with more, we may update this blog. Thanks for reading!

Lisa, Beto and Lex




Saturday, June 15, 2019

Missing the US, Missing Mexico, Part 1


Now that we’re back in the United States for the summer, we’re experiencing a bit of a culture shock! We’re realizing there were a lot of things we missed about the US when we were living south of the border, and we’re delighted to get to experience them again.

But even more surprising – or perhaps not – is how many things we miss about Mexico.

Enjoy our lists!

Things We Missed About the United States

These are some of the things we missed about the U.S. when we were living in Mexico:

·        English-language book stores (especially Barnes & Noble)
·        Noodles & Company
·        Really good hamburgers
·        Brick oven pizza
·        Having white wine on restaurant menus
·        Lilacs
·        Yards and green grass
·        Being able to put toilet paper in the toilet
·        Being able to drink water from the faucet
·        Being able to brush our teeth with water from the faucet
·        Did we mention being able to drink water from the faucet?
·        Cheezit crackers
·        Toilet seats on public toilets
·        Toilet paper always available in public toilets
·        Being able to ride our road bikes

Things We Miss about Mexico

Here are a few things we miss about Mexico, now that we’re back in the States:

·        Low prices for everything
·        Tlaquepaque, and the fact that there was always something free going on in Plaza Hidalgo

Ballot Foclorico in Plaza Hidalgo, Tlaquepaque
·        The incredible views of Guanajuato below and the eye-popping, jagged mountains beyond from every window at Casa Estrella

Guanajuato views

·        The fervent Roman Catholicism, including:
o   Gorgeous churches, basilicas and cathedrals, even in the humblest villages
o   Bloody Jesus statues and other curiosities inside churches
o   Parades to accompany statues of Nuestra Senora (our mother Mary) from church to church
o   Easter pageants, especially the bloody Jesuses carrying their crosses, accompanied by costumed throngs
 
The Virgin of Guadeloupe. She's everywhere.

·        The food! Especially:
o   Nieve de garafa (fresh, hand-stirred ice cream made inside metal barrels, with unconventional flavors such as tequila, elote and blackberry cheesecake)
o   Michoacan ice cream
o   Cuarto de Kilo (awesome Guadalajara hamburger chain with crispy, lemon-pepper-dusted French fries)
o   Pollo Pepe (great chicken place, also a chain)
o   Gus’s, our favorite the taco place in the basement of the mercado (market) in Tlaquepaque
o   Mercado fruits, veggies, breads, and fresh chicken and fish
o   Valentina’s, our favorite pizza place in Tlaquepaque, with its rooftop garden
o   Cat-shaped bolillos (small loaves of bread) from Pasteleria Don Pedro
o   Amazing donuts everywhere in Guadalajara (who knew Mexico was such a big donut destination?)
o   Mexican street food, especially elote (corn) and chayote (a unique Mexican squash) with queso y crema (cheese and a uniquely Mexican thick cream), then doused with salsa. The lonches (meat sandwiches), tacos and fresh-made potato chips were also excellent.

Elote in Tlaquepaque

o   Pasteles (cake) and pan de elote (corn bread) from La Petit Plaisir, the French bakery across the street from the Guadalajara Language Center
o   Chocomilk in any restaurant, which is a refreshingly frothy, blended confection
o   Cremax cookies
o   Raspadas (shave ice with fresh fruit and syrup)

Raspada Frambuesa (raspberry)

·        The drinks! Especially:
o   Horchatas and horchata fresas (a rice and cinnamon drink, sometimes accompanied by strawberries)
o   Aguas frescas (fresh water with the essence of fruit, including mandarin oranges and jamaica, a therapeutic flower)
o   Tequila and mescal
o   Mexican craft beer
o   Limonada (lemonade)

Horchata fresa and tacos in the Tonala mercado

·        The sounds! Especially:
o   Mariachi music
o   Church bells
o   Crowing roosters (who expected to miss this sound?)
o   The song played by the Zeta Gas truck (“Zeta, Zeta, Zeta Gas!”)
o   “Agu-AA!” yelled by the Pura water garafon (jug) delivery man
o   The daily jangling bell of the trashmen

·        Atlas FC Futbol (soccer)
·        Lucha Libre (wrestiling)
·        Adorable roof dogs
·        Waiters never rushing us and always waiting for us to ask for the check
·        The weather (warm days and cool nights, with the occasional dramatic downpour but not a speck of snow)
·        Speaking Spanish all the time

Got this shot into the goal at an Atlas futbol game

Next up … Part 2: Things We Won’t Miss About Mexico

Saturday, June 8, 2019

Mexico, My Tummy and Advice from Kelly Clarkson


I am sitting by the pool of Casa Estrella in Guanajuato, looking out at the spectacular view that has become warmly familiar in the five and a half weeks we have been here. I have barely eaten in three days.

Blame my tummy. And my determination to experience everything Mexico has to offer.

Gastronomic Curiosity


Since we are trying to experience true Mexico and not tourist Mexico, we are NOT eating at the Hard Rock Café or the typical tourist traps. We are eating the Mexican way.

My first street food foray, in Leon:
An Agua Fresca Mandarina (Mandarin Orange Fresh Water)
straight out of a plastic bag. It was delicious,
gave me no side effects, and emboldened me to be adventurous!
We only drink bottled water, like all Mexicans. We buy local produce, bread, chicken and fish at local mercados (markets) and tianguis (pop-up markets), which means we have to ignore the presence of the flies and wash everything carefully with disinfectant before we can eat them. We enjoy meals from puestos, food carts, often with seats, eating tacos, tortas and lonches (different types of sandwiches, filled with meat and cometimes smothered with sauce) and gorditos (little filled pancakes). We love buying raspadas, which are shave-ice and syrupy fresh fruit, often accompanied by sugar-drunk bees.

A delicious cup full of salmonella
(Just kidding -  raspadas never made us sick.
Only supremely happy. Every damn day.)

We love to eat at out-of-the-way, hole-in-the-wall places, where we have made some magnificent discoveries. I found the best green salsa I experienced in Mexico, with mouthwatering chunks of avocado, at a walk-up food stand in the Mercado at Plaza Embajadoras. Whenever I can, I indulge in Horchatas and Horchata Fresas, a uniquely Mexican rice, cinnamon and vanilla drink that is made even better by adding fresh strawberries.

My favorite street food in Tlaquepaque: Elote (corn)
with a (mystery) crema (cream of indeterminate origin)
and queso (shredded cheese)
o
We drink Mexican craft beers, local mescals, and a variety of tequilas. We indulge in nieve de garafas, ice cream handmade in metal jugs with ice and energetic stirring with a wooden mallet. Flavors include elote (corn), pay de manzana (apple pie, with real pieces of pie), queso de zarzamora (blackberry cheesecake), Ferrero Rocher, Nescafe, and often 10 or 20 more. Bob’s favorite place in Tlaquepaque offered at least 60 flavors.

Hecho a Mano


Everything is handmade in Mexico. Who knows how often hands are washed. You just have to not think about it.

The best salsa in the world ...

... and the pork tacos I smothered with them

And the fact is, sometimes you don’t have a choice where you eat. You're driving to the beach and there's only one restaurant to choose from at the mid-point when everyone's hungry. So you chow down and hope for the best. And sometimes you just have to throw caution to the wind if you really want to experience a place.

Paying the Price


So occasionally we pay the price for our adventurousness with a few days of service to the commode. I don’t think you need me to explain the symptoms. It has happened to Beto and me twice and Lex only once (she is not as adventurous, which may be a good thing). 

Each bout takes four or five days to recover, during which we rest a lot (because we’re weak and moving is painful) and enjoy a riveting diet of ginger ale, Saladitas (Saltine crackers), Gatorade and chicken and rice soup. We call them inadvertent dieting opportunities, which have given us a chance to shed the pounds we gained scarfing down ice cream through every city we visited in Europe last fall. I assume each tummy bout makes our systems stronger and more acclimated to whatever may be in the food.



I look at it this way: When we first moved to Mexico, I had issues with my legs, calves, and Achilles tendons for the first two months as my body adjusted to the fact that I was walking many miles every day on hard sidewalks or cobblestone in flat shoes. My stomach has had to make the same adjustment to different foods, spices, and even microorganisms. 



To Quote Kelly Clarkson


As Kelly Clarkson would say, “What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger!”



Saturday, May 18, 2019

Getting Broken Saxophones Repaired


(Even though we have moved on to Guanajuato, we still have a few blogs from our life in Tlaquepaque to post. Enjoy!)

We have two saxophones here in Mexico. Because I routinely play an alto, I keep it on a stand. Unfortunately, one night the nocturnal cat activities got a little too rambunctious and they knocked my sax onto the hard tile floor. My sax had some damage and needed to go into the repair shop.

Lex plays the bari sax, and one day one of her keys no longer functioned properly. It needed to go into the shop, too.

Back in Colorado, we knew of several good shops. In Guadalajara, we didn’t know of any. Mr. Google provided several potential musical instrument repair shops. Then we had to use WhatsApp, in Spanish, to find out whether they repaired saxophones. Fortunately, Mr. Google provided a picture of the front of one shop, Taller (Workshop) Rodriguez e Hijos, which had a sign which said they repaired saxophones. They became the de facto winner.

The sign says: Repair of All Types of Woodwind instruments, including Clarinets, Trumpets, trombones and Saxophones, Gold-Plated, Nickel, Chrome

Visiting Rodriguez e Hijos


Lex and I Ubered to the shop on a Monday afternoon. No Spanish spoken there, but we managed to convey what we needed. The sax expert came out and gave our saxophones a thorough examination. Then, in very rapid Spanish, he explained to us what he needed to do. Neither Lex or I understood a word he said, we just nodded in agreement. He did point out four areas that my sax needed work on. When we asked him when they would be ready, he told us three days.

I also asked how much he thought it would cost and he told us that he wouldn’t know until he did his work. I left with a little concern, since we gave both saxophones to someone we didn’t know and with no idea what it would cost us to get them back.

Bob's happy saxophone

Lexie's rejuvenated bari sax

Lex and I returned on Thursday, and as promised the saxophones were ready. I took mine out and played a few notes. It sounded good.

Then Came the Bill


I then asked the question I was almost afraid to ask – how much was the bill? To my astonishment, the bill was $450MXN, or less than $25USD. I gave him the money and we were off.

I don’t know exactly what was done, but I can guarantee you that the work would have cost us at least $150 USD back in Lakewood, and certainly wouldn’t have been done in 3 days.

But both saxophones were fixed and now sound the way they should.

Thank you Taller Rodriguez e Hijos!

Sunday, May 5, 2019

The Herradura Tequila Express


(Even though we have moved on to Guanajuato, we still have a few blogs from our life in Tlaquepaque to post. Enjoy!)

Living in Tlaquepaque, we were less than 50 miles from the birthplace of tequila, the town of Tequila. So of course we had to visit and become acquainted with Mexico’s most famous alcoholic beverage!

What is Tequila, Anyway?


Tequila, a type of mescal made from the blue agave plant, was first made in the 16th century. Mexican law states that tequila can only be produced in the Mexican state of Jalisco and in limited number in three other states. Tequila must be 40% alcohol (80 proof) in the US, but in Mexico it’s usually 38%.

There are over 100 distilleries producing over 900 brands of tequila, and many conduct tours and tastings at their haciendas.

We decided to splurge and signed up for a day trip on the Herradura Express, a special train leaving from Guadalajara to the Herradura Hacienda in Amatitan, a town adjacent to Tequila. There were three classes of seats on the train. We selected the middle-class ticket which cost $2400 MXN pesos each, or about $125.


 We Ubered to the train station, checked in and selected our seats. Even though we had been told the train had been sold out, we had four comfortable seats and a table to ourselves. There was a bar in our car, which was kept busy the whole day.

Carlos, our bartender

Tequila on the Train


We were immediately served water, juice and a box breakfast. But once the train left the station, at 10 in the morning, they switched to serving tequila-based drinks. I can’t even remember what they all were or how many we had, but the drinks were definitely flowing, including Margaritas, Tequila Sunrises, Horchatas (a Mexican rice-based vanilla drink), White Russians, a coffee-based drink called The Bull, and many more.




After about 90 minutes or so of traveling amid a breathtaking landscape, including fields upon fields of blue agave, we arrived in the tiny pueblo of Amatitan and transferred onto buses for the short ride to the Hacienda Herradura. We got into the English-language tour and were off.

The Tequila Volcano
Agave plants

The Tour

First stop was walking by some blue agave plants, which we learned take 8 years to mature to the point they could be used for tequila. Next, we watched a Jimador use a coa (a wooden-handled cutting blade) to strip the leaves from the plant to get to the heart, also called a pina because it resembles a pineapple, which is used in the distillation process. 

The Jimador with his coa chopping off
the leaves of the blue agave plant
We saw the row of ovens where the pinas are baked. Next, they are squeezed repeatedly to get the agave juice, which is distilled and then fermented in giant barrels. The pulp is removed and used for other things such as candy and even furniture. 

The ovens

A pile of pinas

Tasting


Next we walked through an ancient section of the facility that is no longer used, and led to a tasting cellar. Tasting glasses were neatly laid out on tables.


A bilingual talk was given on the “correct” way to drink tequila: Swish the glass in a circle to check out the “legs” of the liquid. Breath in the scent. Breath in through your nose, hold it, sip tequila onto your tongue. Swallow. Breath out through your nose. Finally, emit an “Ahhh” and empty your lungs. We started our tasting. To the best of my recollection, we tried 5. We could taste the differences, particularly the smoothness, between the various categories of tequila:

  • “Blanco” or “plata” is a white spirit, unaged and bottled or stored immediately after distillation, or aged less than two months in stainless steel or neutral oak barrels. It is used in cocktails.
  • “Reposado” is aged two months to a year in oak barrels of any size
  • “Añejo” aged one to  three years in small oak barrels
  • “Extra Añejo” is aged a minimum of three years in oak barrels.
 Our favorite was reposado.

The Barrel Room


After the tasting, we were led into a huge room in which they kept empty barrels in which tequila had previously been aged. Herradura has a program where a restaurant or bar can come to the distillery and purchase an entire barrel for $10,000 USD. This yields 240 bottles at a per bottle price of $40. The distillery will then customize bottles of the tequila from  the barrel for the purchaser, and the purchaser gets to customize the top of the barrel.


Lunch … and more Tequila


By this time we were ravenous and finally made it to lunch, where we sat at a long table and they served us even more tequila. I sat next to a guy from St. Louis who had been doing work in Las Vegas and on a whim decided to fly down to Guadalajara for a few days. He knew a bit about tequila and told me to ask for a specific high-quality tequila. I did. It was the good stuff and very smooth. He was asking for them two glasses at a time. They served a delicious lunch of chicken, potatoes and vegetables, and we were entertained by a Mariachi band and some folkloric dancers.

Mariachi

Folkloric dancers

 Of course, we needed a souvenir, so we went to the tequila stand they had conveniently set up and purchased 950ml of one of the Reposados for about $25 USD. We had been told that they would engrave our bottle for us, but unfortunately, the engraver called in sick that day. That was probably a good thing; otherwise, it would have been difficult to part with the engraved bottle and we definitely don’t have room for it in the truck. (Later note: It does fit in the truck and we are saving it.)

The Trip Home


It was time to go, and we loaded onto the buses for the trip back to the train. Once on the train, the cocktails continued to flow until we arrived back in Guadalajara at around 8 PM. To our complete surprise, neither one of us were feeling any effects of the non-stop day of drinking, although there was one group on our train that was definitely loud and raucous on the ride back.

Cocktails on the trip home
All in all, we had a great day. It was pricey but the experience was worth it!