Laguna Guatavita: In Search of the Legend of El Dorado

We took a hiking tour – in Spanish – of the Laguna de Cacique Guatavita, which roughly translates to Guatavita Indian Chief Lake.

Located about 40 miles north of Bogotá, Lake Guatavita is a spectacular lake in the heart of the Colombian mountains. It’s also the birthplace of a legend of El Dorado, the mythical city of gold.

The hike was challenging, taking you over 10,000 feet, and the reward was a breathtaking vista. Es vale la pena!

Bring good hiking shoes and lots of water. You’ll need to get an official tour, which includes the bus from Bogota and a tour in Spanish, and often is paired with a tour of the Salt Cathedral. If you’re over 60, the senior discount is significant.  

INFO

MyColombia.com

MAP

Charco El Pilón: River Hiking and Waterfall Swimming

The remarkable hike to and from Charco El Pilón in Puerto Rico’s Maricao State Forest is a challenging rocky, muddy 2 ½-mile scramble along -- and often through -- the "El Chorote” branch that arrives at the El Pilón stream. The forest is lush and shady, and the terrain is hilly and challenging. The payoff is a spectacular waterfall and swimming hole.

You’ll find the trailhead at the end of Route 362, high in the mountains in San Germán, Cabo Rojo, on the southwestern corner of the island. You can park in front of road barriers or alongside the road. The well-maintained trail immediately, just to the left of a little house, takes you down and then up a steep hill, and it’s game on!

Charco El Pilón is a 30-foot-high waterfall with a deep, clear pool beneath, perfect for swimming in (we kept our shoes on).

Here are a few tips to enhance your experience:

·        Start early to avoid the crowds and get a good parking spot. We encountered a guided group of at least 50 people on our way back.

·        Bring lots of water.

·        Wear a swimsuit!

·     Wear shoes with a good grip that you can get wet! I wore Hoka trail running shoes that drained easily and could be washed afterward. Bob wore hiking boots, which were more of a challenge to get clean.

INFO

Puerto Rico Day Trips
All Trails Description
All Trails – our hike

Map (Trailhead)

Birdwatching at Laguna Cartagena

The Laguna Cartagena National Wildlife Refuge bursts with birds year-round, but also offers hiking and mountain biking trails and some pretty spectacular scenery. Managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, this wetland is one of the most important freshwater habitats for migrating and resident aquatic birds in Puerto Rico.

Almost half the birds recorded in Puerto Rico have been observed in the lagoon and its nearby hills. Visitors have a good chance of seeing a Magnificent Frigatebird, several species of herons, smooth-billed ani, the common moorhen, and occasionally the yellow-shouldered blackbird. I even saw white egrets and an osprey.

So if you’re anywhere near the southwest coast of the island, you should put on your hiking shoes, grab a pair of binoculars, a bottle of water, and a good camera, and spend a morning watching the avian activity and enjoying the birdsongs.

The trails are closed during nesting season – early March to late August – so time your visit well.

Info:

Fish & Wildlife
Birdfinding.org (Laguna info)
Birdfinding.org (Caribbean bird index)

MAP

Hiking the Cliffs at Playa Sucia, Puerto Rico

You feel as though you’ve gone to the end of the earth when you stand atop the stunning cliffs rimming the peninsula beyond pristine Playa Sucia, the beach at the extreme southwest corner of Puerto Rico, and look out across the vast turquoise sea.

Most hikers who come here take the breathtaking 1 ½ mile trail that encircles the iconic lighthouse Los Morrillos. We did it, ourselves, a couple of years ago. (Here's the video) It was amazing!

But if you sneak off to the very left side of Playa Sucia (also known as Playuela), you’ll find a billy goat trail of about 2 ½ miles that gives you devastating beautiful views of the lighthouse from across the bay, with waves crashing into the cliffs below. You’ll also take in the crescent beach and the vast ocean beyond. The area is called Acantilados de Cabo Rojo, which translates to the Cliffs of Cabo Rojo. If you’re afraid of heights, don’t go too close to the edge! Otherwise, prepare to be blown away, by both wind and natural beauty.

There’s no shade, so wear sunscreen and a sunhat, and bring water to drink. But the most important accessory is your camera! We suggest you drop your beach chairs and swimsuits under a seagrape tree on the beach before hiking so you can cool off afterward with a dip in the warm waves.

INFO

Our Hike on the All Trails app

Map

Mini-Tour: Combate Beach Walk

There is so much to do at Combate (pronounced Come-BAH-tay) Beach in Cabo Rojo, Puerto Rico! Beto prefers to relax in his Tommy Bahama beach chair with its cooler and cupholder for his frozen Pitorro rum drink, doom-scrolling on his smartphone or reading a book on military history while watching the pelicans fish in the Caribbean Sea and la Policía zip around in their black speedboat chasing nautical scofflaws.

But Lisa likes to explore, walking down the beach looking for shells and sea glass, or hiking or running in Boquerón State Forest, at the edge of a lagoon that attracts a lot of birds, including unique migratory birds. The hiking/biking trail that meanders through the dry forest by the lagoon stretches 7 miles south to the Salt Flats.

Join her for a walk!

(Watch our original Combate Beach video)

INFO

Combate Beach
Boquerón State Forest Hiking Trail
Map

Is Combate the Most Beautiful Beach in Puerto Rico?

We almost hesitate to share this video because we love El Combate Beach (pronounced Come-BAH-tay) so much. It is one of the most beautiful beaches in Puerto Rico, with golden sand, calm turquoise water that creates perfect swimming conditions, and lots of shade trees. Pelicans dive for fish and rays occasionally jump out of the water. Combate's location at the edge of Boquerón State Forest means we also get to enjoy a nearby lagoon that attracts a lot of birds, including unique migratory birds. The hiking/biking trail that meanders through the dry forest by the lagoon stretches 7 miles south to the Salt Flats.

The nearby village of Combate has our favorite waterfront restaurant, Annie’s, where you can sip a drink, nibble queso frito or red snapper, and enjoy the best sunsets in Puerto Rico.  It’s very quiet on weekdays but can become quite lively on weekends. But the faryher away from town you walk, the quieter it gets.

The biggest drawback to Combate is parking, or the lack thereof. There’s no lot and a long woodland path to get there. ! (We usually park on the street near Combate Beach Resort, and then walk in via the woodland path along the lagoon.) But it’s worth the effort!  

There are also no facilities, either bathroom or changing, so you might pay Annie’s a visit just to use the restroom. There are other places in Combate to get pina coladas as well.

https://youtu.be/0S0418-0SjQ

Info
Map 

Kayaking up the Guajataca River

We enjoyed a lovely morning kayaking on the Guajataca River with Planeta Kayak. We also hiked up a mountain to an abandoned railroad tunnel (used long ago for sugar cane, or caña) called el Túnel Negro (the Black Tunnel, for obvious reasons. Thank goodness for cellphone flashlights!).

Rio Guajataca (pronounced REE-oh Gwah-hah-TAH-kuh) is located on the border of Isabela and Quebradillas on the northwest coast of Puerto Rico. The leisurely trip cost $40 cost per person, which included double kayaks, paddles, life jackets, and a two-hour tour. Although the water was placid and the pace relaxing, adventure seekers enjoyed a chance to dump into the river from a rope swing!

Our tour guide Jose spoke in rapid Puerto Rican Spanish, so we didn’t catch it all. But we saw mangroves and other interesting tropical trees and plants, fascinating birds, and even a nest with chicks right along the water. We suggest you wear a swimsuit under your clothes, wear good walking sandals for the hike, which is short but challenging. Don’t forget sunscreen! And bring your own water bottle, because our guide brought a cooler but apparently forgot to fill it with water bottles for his guests.

All in all, it was a refreshing day, and we recommend it! Afterward, you can head to the nearby beach and enjoy an afternoon under the palm trees.

Planeta Kayak

Rio Guajataca

Map

The Pterocarpus Forest: A Nature Enclave Within a Sprawling Resort

Who would expect to find a beautifully preserved nature preserve in the middle of the largest resort development in Puerto Rico? But that’s what we discovered when we entered the Pterocarpus Forest.

The Pterocarpus Forest nature preserve at Palmas del Mar is a 51-acre swamp forest, one of the largest remaining swamp forests in Puerto Rico. It serves as a habitat for 44 species of flora and 52 species of fauna, and this is a relief to see when elsewhere in Palmas del Mar, trees are being razed to create the latest luxury developments.

This wetland forest is named after the Pterocarpus Officinalis tree (“Dragonsblood Tree”), which has awesome roots that spread out majestically. It can grow more than 65 feet tall.

There’s also a lookout tower and a pond, which provide lively bird, turtle and iguana-watching.

Although Palmas is a private development, the Pterocarpus Forest is open to the public. Just tell the guard at the gate that’s where you are going. They have even been known to give out forest maps. There’s also an app that offers a walking tour of the forest.

Links

Info
Map

Another Elusive Puerto Rican Cave: Cueva de las Golondrinas

It took some digging to find the well-hidden Cueva de las Golandrinas (Cave of the Swallows), on the jagged coast near Arecibo. We made a wrong turn before getting some guidance from the ancient, toothless man with the machete to whom we had paid a few bucks "propina" (tip) to watch our car on the dirt road.

Tip: If someone is on the roadside or has a yard nearby and offers to let you park, or watch your car, for maybe $5, do it. It's good manners and pragmatic, and the cops in Puerto Rico are pretty vicious about writing tickets to unsuspecting drivers for infractions such as parking with your car facing the wrong direction, or parking with any part of your car blocking the roadway.

This man, whose Spanish was almost unintelligible, likely used that machete to clear branches on the roadside so our car wouldn't get scratched. He was lean and brown and muscular, despite appearing to be well into his 80s. He kept an eye on our vehicle while we were hiking, and kindly showed us the hidden trailhead without us even asking. 

Then on to find the cave! It was very difficult to find, as the trails are not well marked. We were halfway there when we finally chanced upon a sign, the only one sign, plunked in the middle of a meadow. If you’re going to do this hike, wear water shoes and a swimsuit, because you have to wade into the water to get a clear view of the cave. It's gorgeous, and the beach is lovely. Definitely worth the walk.

LINKS:

Cueva de las Golondrinas

Map

Alltrails Hike (The cave is at the very western end of this hike.)

 

Surviving the Hike to Survival Beach

We survived the hike to Survival Beach in Aguadilla, Puerto Rico, but never made it onto the sand! After navigating jagged volcanic rocks and boulders, sweating through steep ascents and descents, picking over roots and peering into caves, and dancing around high tide on the sand, we found the actual Survival Beach to be inaccessible, cut off by the sea. Still, the hike was lovely, and the rugged vistas glorious!

Hiking the Guajataca Tunnel: Butterfly Meadows, Crashed Boats and Ocean Cliffs

Amazingly, the actual Guajataca Tunnel was the least interesting part of this hike. And the tunnel was fantastic! But, as always happens when you’re as open to new discoveries, we found so much more.

Get all the details and dazzling pictures in our blog.  

LINKS: 

Guajataca Tunnel: https://www.puertoricotravelguide.com/guajataca-tunnel-quebradillas-puerto-rico/ 

Map: https://goo.gl/maps/uRJ5p5z3WMDMK5pi6

Finding the Elusive Guaniquilla Tunnel

One of the items on Bob’s Cabo Rojo bucket list was finding the Túnel de Guaniquilla (Guaniquilla Tunnel). We had both seen tourist accounts on TripAdvisor and other websites about how horrendously difficult it is to find, and mixed reviews on whether the search was worth it. But Bob was determined. It turns out that these people were making the mistake of seeking it as a drive-by tourist attraction. So imagine our delight when we decided to hike in Punta Guaniquilla Nature Reserve, and Lisa spotted the tunnel on the AllTrails app map!

Read the entire blog and enjoy pictures at https://messysuitcase.com/index.php/2022/03/08/guaniquilla-tunnel/.

We Went Too Far! Lost in the Cueva del Viento

Our exciting hike into the Cueva del Viento (Cave of the Wind) took a potentially disastrous turn when we ventured too far into the pitch-black cave and couldn't find our way out.

We found ourselves grappling with very dark thoughts as we walked in endless circles, listening to bats screech overhead and willing our flashlights not to stop working, while we looked for anything familiar to help us escape the cave.

The Cueva del Viento is found at the end of a popular trail in Guajataca State Forest in the northwestern town of Isabela, Puerto Rico. If you go, make sure you take a good flashlight, tell someone where you are going, and don’t go in too deep.

We thought the rickety stairs down into the cave were the dangerous part.

We were wrong.

LINK:

Cueva del Viento

Hiking Fuerte Caprón in Guanica Dry Forest

Hiking Fuerte Caprón in Guanica State Forest

Found at the end of one of the most hiked trails in the Guánica Dry Forest, Fuerte (Fort) Caprón offers a sweeping vista of the Caribbean Sea, the village of Guánica below, and the mountains surrounding gleaming Guánica Bay.

This pretty fort was built in the 16th century by the Spanish, and later used by U.S. troops after the Spanish-American war. It has a chamber tucked underneath that offers shade and the opportunity to examine decades worth of colorful graffiti.

We hiked to the fort, walked the trail that encircles it, then continued up the trailhead for a 5.7-mile hike. It’s a steady uphill hike on the way out, without much shade and no facilities. Bring lots of water (we suggest freezing a couple of bottles in advance) and lunch or a snack, and wear sunscreen and a hat!

You are rewarded on the descent with spectacular views in the last mile.

The hike is one of many in the Guánica State Forest, also known as El Bosque Seco de Guánica, a United Nations International Biosphere Reserve. It’s one of the most extensive tropical dry coastal forests in the world, totaling around 9,000 acres.

LINKS:

Map to trailhead: https://goo.gl/maps/UtWda2dCrfvkrRM77

Discover Puerto Rico: https://www.discoverpuertorico.com/profile/fuerte-capron/8380

Guánica Dry Forest: https://www.discoverpuertorico.com/article/visit-guanicas-dry-forest

All Trails: https://www.alltrails.com/trail/puerto-rico/west-region/fuerte-trail

Map Link: https://goo.gl/maps/qcHbG8qbkRNFPGEs6

Hiking Laguna Guaniquilla: Best. Hike. Ever.

We came to see the rocks in the Laguna Guaniquilla. (That's pronounced Gwah-nuh-KEE-yuh) But we found so much more, including huge jagged rock formations rising from a lake, massive hidden caves, secret beaches with startling vistas, sleeping frogs, and crab armies.

This is a long video, but worth every second if you're up for exploring and new experiences. Strap on your hiking boots, grab a water bottle, and join us on the hike!

Cabo Rojo Lighthouse Hike: Limestone Cliffs and Jaw Dropping Views

A hike in the nature reserve around the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse (Los Morrillos) served us up spectacular vistas, with stomach-dropping white and red cliffs, fascinating rock formations, crystal-clear Caribbean Sea and even cacti!

Fall Foliage in Clarendon Gorge

Yesterday we hiked on the Appalachian Trail, heading south at the Clarendon Gorge South trailhead. We hiked this during the summer, and after noticing while running errands in Rutland that this valley was still at its fall foliage peak, we decided to head over and see how it looked in full autumn regalia.

The Suspension Bridge

This hike is interesting from the very first quarter-mile because you cross the Bob Brugmann Suspension Bridge, which was built in the late 1970s and named for a close hiking pal of my friend Welles Lobb who was swept to his death while crossing the gorge as a teen. From the middle of this shaky bridge, you have outstanding views in both directions of the Clarendon Gorge Falls, a popular day trip for local residents. At the end of the hike we passed some through-hikers bathing in the low waters of the gorge (but respectfully did not take any pictures of their bare asses).

The Trail

Turn right immediately after crossing the bridge and you begin the steep ascent onto the Appalachian/Long Trail. Warning: This trail is never not steep. This is not a hike for the faint of heart. It is difficult and rocky in parts, and extremely slippery. My new hiking poles came in handy, and even Bob pulled out his for the descent. But it is worth it for the rugged beauty of the forest you pass through.

The Views

We were rewarded with outstanding views from the two vistas along the ridge, which look west through a valley that hosts Rutland Regional Airport below. The day was so clear that we could easily see the orange-brushed Adirondacks in the distance.

The Planes! The Planes!

Our timing in reaching the vistas was perfect because we saw two planes taking off -- one a puddle jumper and one a jet, probably filled with New Yorkers going home after the long Indigenous Peoples Day weekend.

Kent Pond Hike

A late-summer hike on the Appalachian Trail in Killington, Vermont, took us to lovely Kent Pond. Come hiking with us! 

Easy Hikes to the Top of the World

Vermont has an endless bounty of hikes, from the challenging Appalachian/Long Trail that traverses the entire state, to short hikes with big rewards. All of them are steep, because these are the Green Mountains, after all!

Here a couple we enjoy that can be done with the kids, or with people in your party who aren’t used to long hikes. Both will reward you with outstanding views for not too much effort. Don’t forget to pack your binoculars or a camera!

Hike to the Top of Okemo

There’s a short hike to the top of the Okemo Mountain Road that gives you an awesome vantage point with less than a mile of hiking. You can hike through dense, magical woods up a steep, rocky trail, or you can hike up a relatively easy road. At the top you have a mountain-top view from the Okemo Peak that lets you gaze down upon the Village of Ludlow, Lake Rescue, and mountains all the way to New Hampshire. You’ll see the ski lift and can climb to the top of the Fire Tower (if you’re not afraid of heights). It’s less than a mile round trip. There are some pull-offs with scenic views on the way down. Learn more.

Directions to the Trailhead:

Turn left on Route 100, then left at the end. Make a right onto Okemo Mtn Rd. Drive up to the Okemo Lodge, continuing up the private road to its left (OPEN from late spring to late fall). This road will switchback straight up the mountain for about 4-5 miles until you reach the top. You’ll be able to park at the end and either walk on the road or go up the trail to the left.

Echo Lake Vista Trail

Children as young as five can successfully navigate the hike up the Echo Lake Vista Trail. It’s steep but not brutal, and the views of Echo Lake, okemo Mountain, and the whole area from the top are breathtaking. there’s a nice rock there where you can relax and enjoy a snack. It’s only 1.5 miles round-trip. Learn more.

Directions to the Trailhead:

The trail is located at Camp Plymouth State Park Distance. Go north on Route 100 (turn right from Benson Point), North, then turn right onto Kingdom Road at the Echo Lake Inn, follow 1 mile to Boy Scout Camp Road, and turn left to Camp Plymouth State Park. Park for free in a parking lot on the right before the road crosses the creek. The trailhead is past the cabins on the right, or you can go farther on the road and access the trail by old wooden steps that take you through an ancient cemetery.

White Rocks: Trip to the Top

Messy Suitcase is back exploring! Right now we're in Vermont, where Bob hiked to the top of White Rocks National Recreation Area! Follow along with Bob as he hikes straight up the mountain.