Saturday, March 26, 2022

Another Elusive Puerto Rican Cave: Cueva de las Golondrinas

It took some digging to find the well-hidden Cueva de las Golandrinas (Cave of the Swallows), on the jagged coast near Arecibo. We made a wrong turn before getting some guidance from the ancient, toothless man with the machete to whom we had paid a few bucks "propina" (tip) to watch our car on the dirt road.

Tip: If someone is on the roadside or has a yard nearby and offers to let you park, or watch your car, for maybe $5, do it. It's good manners and pragmatic, and the cops in Puerto Rico are pretty vicious about writing tickets to unsuspecting drivers for infractions such as parking with your car facing the wrong direction, or parking with any part of your car blocking the roadway.

This man, whose Spanish was almost unintelligible, likely used that machete to clear branches on the roadside so our car wouldn't get scratched. He was lean and brown and muscular, despite appearing to be well into his 80s. He kept an eye on our vehicle while we were hiking, and kindly showed us the hidden trailhead without us even asking. 

Then on to find the cave! It was very difficult to find, as the trails are not well marked. We were halfway there when we finally chanced upon a sign, the only one sign, plunked in the middle of a meadow. If you’re going to do this hike, wear water shoes and a swimsuit, because you have to wade into the water to get a clear view of the cave. It's gorgeous, and the beach is lovely. Definitely worth the walk.

LINKS:

Cueva de las Golondrinas

Map

Alltrails Hike (The cave is at the very western end of this hike.)

 

Thursday, March 24, 2022

Tuesday, March 22, 2022

The Museo de las Americas: An Undiscovered Gem in Old San Juan


We had a goal in mind when we visited the Museo de las Americas in Old San Juan: to find a mask created by Miguel Caraballo, the legendary carnival maskmaker from Ponce. We had commissioned one of his gorgeous vejigante masks in 1995 and then again this past year. (A vejigante is a folkloric character in Puerto Rican festival celebrations, mainly seen during Carnival time.) Caraballo, whose business has expanded to include his artisan son Miguel the 2nd and marketer grandson Miguel the 3rd, is a legend in the maskmaking world, with a mask in this museum as well as one in the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC. The mask in the Smithsonian is not currently on display in the Museum of American History, but we found his mask high on a wall in the Museum of the Americas! We also found a lot of colorful, fantastical, fascinating art that captivated us for several hours. The Museum of the Americas is a non-profit institution founded in 1992 to “offer a synoptic vision of the history and culture of the American continent, emphasizing Puerto Rico, through our exhibition programs and cultural activities.” It’s located near El Morro.

LINKS

Info: Museum of the Americas - museolasamericas.org/ Miguel Caraballo - https://www.facebook.com/ Map: Museo De Las Americas, Calle Beneficencia, San Juan




Sunday, March 20, 2022

The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Part 3

 Messy Suitcase Restaurant Recommendations

Although we have expounded upon the value of being adventurous and experimenting with cuisine, we also understand that your time on the island is limited, and you might want to be pointed toward some proven winners. So here are Messy Suitcase’s recommendations for the best places we have eaten on the island. But remember, everyone has different taste.

Food Truck Parks

San Juan: Miramar Food Truck Park in San Juan.


This park in a chic urban neighbrohood has an excellent beer place, Greek, Chinese/Latin fusion, vegan, frappes, Mexican, and more. On weekends, enjoy live music.
Info: facebook.com/MiramarFoodTruckPark
Map: 1006 Ave. Ponce de Leon 00907 San Juan, Puerto Rico

Luquillo: Playa La Pared

Food trucks set up shop on weekend nights across from the beach at La Pared in Luquillo. There are only two or three, including the taco truck Mi Parcela, but they are excellent.
Info: No website
Map: Calle Herminio Diaz Navarro, Luquillo, Puerto Rico

Rio Grande: Pa'l Yunque Food Park

We found this on the way home from hiking El Yunque. I enjoyed a falafel while Bob had a burger. The food park was small, accessible, cheap and delicious. Nice shelter from a rainstorm, too. Perfect end of a hiking day.
Info: facebook.com/palyunquefoodpark/
Map: 40 PR-955 00721 Rio Grande, Puerto Rico

Vieques: Rincon del Sabor

We only ate at the coffee place here, which serves up a good breakfast and the best shakes I have ever had. There are other food trucks with traditional Puerto Rican food, but they were closed due to COVID.
Info: facebook.com/rincondelsaborvqs
Map: Carretera 200 km 0.6, Florida, Vieques, Puerto Rico, 00765

Luquillo: The Kioskos


The Luquillo Kioskos (food kiosks) aren’t a food truck park, but a long row of around 60 family-owned kiosks selling food, drinks, and souvenirs, located on a service road just north of Route 3, near the Luquillo Public Beach. Right behind them is a slightly rundown beach that locals love to hang out in, blasting music and jet skiing. Tourists often get it confused with Balneario (Pubic Beach) Luquillo, which is just east but still walking distance to the kioskos for lunch. The kioskos themselves are pretty rundown and some are closed, but don’t let their appearance discourage you from having a truly Puerto Rican dining experience. Most have outdoor dining in the rear with views of the Atlantic Ocean. Avoid overrated La Parrilla Restaurant on the west end, which attracts diners with its large parking lot and aggressive advertising, but provides nothing special in service, ambience or food quality. Our favorite restaurant here is Revolution Pizza.
Info: puertoricodaytrips.com/uquillo-kiosks
Map: goo.gl/maps/4rkEoCWX2h22zduJ9

Restaurants

Here are some favorites from around the island.

Aguadilla: Cinco

Creative Caribbean cuisine, served up in a stylish atmosphere. Pricy and elegant, with excellent cocktails. The menu is unique and the food is delicious. You would find a place like this on New York’s Upper East Side.
Info: facebook.com/cincorestaurant/
Map: KM. 9.2 PR-110, Aguadilla Pueblo, Aguadilla 00603

Fajardo: Las Vistas Cafe at Las Croabas


This restaurant served up the best meal I had in eastern Puerto Rico. Get reservations, as it’s very popular and COVID careful, even though you are dining on a rooftop with 360° views of Las Croabas Bay, Seven Seas Beach, and the islands of Vieques and Culebra. The owner, Gladys, treats every customer like her best friend. The food is exquisite. Breakfast, lunch and brunch only.
Info: lasvistascafepr.com/
Map: goo.gl/maps/uVZ2jgMv7EFj7a138

Pinky's in Condado

This is a lovely little breakfast discovery, but forget about getting in on a weekend day. There’s also one on Calle Loiza.
Info: facebook.com/Pinkys-112452892183010
Map: 1351 1351 Ashford Ave., Condado, Puerto Rico

Manatí: Pollo Costero BBQ

Another roadside discovery. The friendly, English-fluent proprietor let us pick a la carte whatever looked interesting in the food case, and charged hardly anything. The rotisserie chicken was mouthwatering; we speculated it could be as fresh as the chicken roadkill we had seen on the way there. (Just kidding.)

Info: facebook.com/pollocosterobbq
Map: Carretera 685 00674 Manati, Puerto Rico

Cabo Rojo: Annie’s Place

Who cares if the food is any good? Which it is, but that’s not the point. The location right next to glorious Combate Beach is the bomb, and the sunsets are not to be believed. The menu is seafood, seafood and more seafood, with the choice of the same sauces we saw at every other seafood restaurant. The drinks are great. Did I mention the spectacular sunsets?
Info: facebook.com/Annies-Place-Combate-Beach-Cabo-Rojo-1552167661708533/
Map: Playa El Combate Beach, PR-3301, Boquerón, 00622

Cabo Rojo: Coco Loco BBQ Smokehouse

Great BBQ in unassuming outdoor setting. One-woman show.
Info: No website.
Map: Carr 102 km 15.9, Cabo Rojo, 00623

Cabo Rojo: El Bohio, Joyuda

Joyuda is a fisherman’s village with a bunch of excellent seafood restaurants to choose from. We chose El Bohio because of its large back deck,. Which faces the ocean and provides the best sunset views. A gang of enormous gray fish hangs out in the shallow water right by the ready to jump on sfood craps the staff throws, which provides excellent entertainment. Families love this place. Probably any restaurant in this town would be excellent.

Info: facebook.com/elbohio.restaurant, puertoricodaytrips.com/joyuda-seafood/
Map: Carretera 102 km.14.1, Cabo Rojo, 00623

Luquillo: Boardriders Surf Bar and Grill

This was our favorite restaurant while living in Luquillo. It provides two levels of outdoor seating, all with views of the crashing surf at La Pared Beach. Expect excellent passion fruit mojitos, healthy vegetarian options, and really friendly staff. Live entertainment on the weekends features sounds of roots, reggae, jazz, rumba and more.
Info: boardriderssurfbar.com/
Map: US, 25 Calle Miguel Veve Calzada, Luquillo, 00773

Culebra: Dinghy Dock Restaurant


This popular place right on the water offers up outstanding Bushwhackers and excellent American food. It’s popular; come early or be prepared to wait in line.

Info: facebook.com/Dinghy-Dock-Culebra-970553193101653
Map: 372 Calle Fulladoza 00775 Culebra, Puerto Rico

Up next … Finding New York-Quality Pizza in Puerto Rico

Surviving the Hike to Survival Beach


We survived the hike to Survival Beach in Aguadilla, Puerto Rico, but never made it onto the sand! After navigating jagged volcanic rocks and boulders, sweating through steep ascents and descents, picking over roots and peering into caves, and dancing around high tide on the sand, we found the actual Survival Beach to be inaccessible, cut off by the sea. Still, the hike was lovely, and the rugged vistas glorious!

Friday, March 18, 2022

Whale Watching in Rincon


We are living in western Puerto Rico at the same time (January through March) that humpback whales are migrating, mating and birthing in the ocean at this end of the island, in the channel between us and the Dominican Republic. So we decided to book a whale watching trip. We chose Taino Divers out of Rincon, who operate a two-hour sunset cruise from Black Eagle Beach. They don’t promise you’ll see whales–they are wild animals, after all–but we saw plenty, while also enjoying a choice of cold beverages, from water and soda to rum punch!

We could have swam in the 1,000-foot-deep ocean if we had thought to wear our suits. Next time! Maybe we’ll even be able to hear whales singing underwater.

Humpback whales are mammals the size of a school bus who live in the ocean. They’re called humpbacks because of the shape they take when they dive deep into the water after popping up to the surface.

These whales hunt and feed up north in the summer, then head south to warmer waters and fast during the winter, living off their blubber while they focus on migration and mating. They travel in packs called pods, so we saw several groups swimming together. Our guide said when we see the flippers, that means the whale is diving deep, so it’s time to look for them to emerge elsewhere.

The cost was $64 pp plus tax and tip. Definitely worth it for an awesome experience! We’ll definitely be going back with our son Gavin when he visits next week

Facts about humpbacks from livescience.com:

Humpback whales are not the biggest whales—that's the blue whale. Still, humpbacks can grow to 60 feet (18 meters) long, and they can weigh a whopping 40 tons (about half the size of a blue whale), according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Their flippers can grow up to 16 feet long, which is the largest appendage in the world. Their tails are also massive and grow up to 18 feet (5.5 m) wide. Like most whales, females are larger than males.

Enjoy some humpback whale pictures on our blog, messysuitcase.com.

LINKS:

Taino Divers: https://www.tainodivers.com/

Humpback Whale Info: https://www.livescience.com/58464-humpback-whale-facts.html

Thursday, March 17, 2022

The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Part 2

What is Puerto Rican Food, Anyway?

A lot of people expect Puerto Rican food to be like Mexican, with nachos and guacamole and burritos. But it’s a completely unique cuisine that evolved over centuries from the blending of Spanish, Taino, West Indian and American influences with the vegetables, fruits and meats available for consumption on the island.

Traditional Puerto Rican food includes a large selection of fried dishes, called frituras, often sold from roadside kiosks, and stuffed breads. Many are deep-fried. Here are a few stalwarts:

  • Alcapurrias–Yucca or plantain-based fritters filled with ground beef, lobster, crab, or shrimp.
  • Bacalaitos–Deep-fried, crunchy codfish fritters.
  • Piononos–Deep-fried sweet plantain appetizers stuffed with seasoned meat or seafood.
  • Rellenos de Papa - Potatoes stuffed with ground beef and deep fried to create a crispy outer layer.
  • Arepas–fried bread stuffed with anything from cheese to chicken or seafood.
  • Plaintain–a green banana that is used in cooking many, many dishes in Puerto Rico.
  • Mofongo–fried, then mashed and spiced, plantain, stuffed with meat or seafood and then covered in sauce.
  • Empanadillas and Pastelillos–pastry pockets filled with seafood, meat or cheese. Empanadillas are bigger.
  • Fried Cheese–Lightly fried cheese squares served with guava sauce. Lisa’s favorite.
  • Cheese Balls–Breaded, deep-fried cheese fritters.
  • Pinchos–outstanding chicken or pork kebabs with BBQ sauce.
  • Quesito—Breakfast pastry filled with cream cheese and sometimes fruit.

    There are many other dishes. These two articles share even more information about Puerto Rican cuisine.

Top 10 Puerto Rico 

Speaking Latino 

Coastal Food


Along the coast, traditional food means freshly caught fish–dorado, red snapper, salmon, cod, or octopus or lobster, served with rice and perhaps beans. Diners have a choice of traditional sauces that seem to be found at all seafood restaurants on PR’s west coast: criollo (tomato, onion and peppers), butter, and creamy garlic. Oysters and mussels are also big, and can be consumed fresh from the sea at roadside stands in beach towns.

City Food

Cities in Puerto Rico are as cosmopolitan as any, so dinner in San Juan or Ponce or Mayagüez could just as easily mean Spanish (remember, Christopher Columbus and the first white settlers came from Spain), Mexican, Argentinean, Brazilian, Japanese, Italian, Thai, or any other cuisine. “Traditional” Puerto Rican food in a more upscale restaurant will be less greasy and add new flavors. Be adventurous!

Up Next … The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Pt. 3: Our Restaurant Recommendations

Read Part 1

Wednesday, March 16, 2022

Hiking the Guajataca Tunnel: Butterfly Meadows, Crashed Boats and Ocean Cliffs


Amazingly, the actual Guajataca Tunnel was the least interesting part of this hike. And the tunnel was fantastic! But, as always happens when you’re as open to new discoveries, we found so much more.

Get all the details and dazzling pictures in our blog.  

LINKS: 

Guajataca Tunnel: https://www.puertoricotravelguide.com/guajataca-tunnel-quebradillas-puerto-rico/ 

Map: https://goo.gl/maps/uRJ5p5z3WMDMK5pi6

Tuesday, March 15, 2022

The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Pt. 1

“Where are the best places to eat in Puerto Rico?”

Many prospective travelers to this wonderful island seek gustatory advice in advance, as part of their trip planning. And this is understandable! So Messy Suitcase is here to help you eat authentically and well, in a new series, The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico.

We are of several minds about PR meal planning. First of all, most Puerto Ricans would probably say the best place to eat is in Abuela’s (Grandma’s) kitchen.

Secondly, while you’re searching for that recommended restaurant, you may be passing ten others that are just as good or better.

Everybody’s taste is different, be it flavor, style, formality, familiarity, level of spice, authenticity, or whatever makes your tongue sing. So one person’s Michelin 5-Star restaurant may be another person’s disappointment.

Be Adventurous!

Half the fun of Puerto Rican food–or really, any country’s food–is making discoveries. You’re sunning on Playa Combate, the day is ending, you see lights of a restaurant twinkling at the north end of the beach. You wander over and stumble upon a restaurant overlooking the ocean at sunset, with excellent cocktails and unparalleled views. No recommendation necessary! Just explore.

Trying something new doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll like it, but it’s still important to be adventurous.

Example #1: Piñones

We have visited the Piñones food stands area just east of San Juan, driving along the ocean and picking out unassuming food stands from which to order traditional Puerto Rican food, prepared the way Abuela makes it.

Visiting Piñones is a local tradition, especially on weekend afternoons. These ramshackle food stands have been operating for years. No matter which you pick, the atmosphere is rustic, to be kind. The service is slow, to be kind. The food is really greasy, to be kind. But the piña coladas are perfection. Carrying your oily lunch to the beach to picnic in the sand while watching the waves crash is an unforgettable experience, not to be missed.

You know what IS forgettable, though? The food. For example, alcapurrias (al-kuh-por-EE-yuhs) are grease-laden lumps of dough with a dash of some sort of meat or seafood. They soak into your tongue before you can swallow, then sit in your stomach and take up residence like guests who refuse to leave.


Am I sorry I had this experience? Absolutely not. It’s true Puerto Rico. (And now I know to avoid alcapurrias.)

Would I recommend it? Absolutely. (But maybe just once.)

Avoid Chinese

A word to the wide, though: Don’t eat Chinese food in Puerto Rico. We have had excellent Chinese food in Guadalajara, Mexico. But on the island of enchantment? Not once. Just don’t go there. It is universally terrible. The meat has a weird texture. The sauces are limited, and taste odd. The vegetables are sparse, and none of them are Chinese. Every dish, inexplicably, comes with a side of soggy French fries. (Gotta get that deep-fried in!)  Please. Anything but this.

Food Truck Parks

The latest trend in Puerto Rico is our favorite–food truck parks. These are brilliant for a number of reasons:

·     They are outdoors–no COVID fears.
·       They provide a wide variety of options. If you have different tastes or picky eaters in your group, you can split up and find something for everyone, then come back together to eat.
·       The food is cheap.
·       The food is freshly made to order.
·       They always set up pleasant covered areas to sit and enjoy your meal.

Up next … A Guide to Puerto Rican Food

Monday, March 14, 2022

Messy Suitcase Mini-Tour: Get to Know Jobos Beach

Introducing Messy Suitcase Mini-Tours! We'll use them to give you a better feel for some of the places we've visited, starting with Jobos Beach in Isabella, Puerto Rico! (That's pronounced Hobos Beach, and it IS a very laidback place.)

Jobos Beach is a fun place to spend a day, watching the surfers to the left, snorkeling to the right, drinking a pina colada, watching the giant waves crash into the rock wall, and chatting with your neighbors. Here's what it's like!

LINKS

Saturday, March 12, 2022

La Parquera Snorkeling: Don't Kill the Reef!


Snorkeling is one of the most inspiring activities you can do. It’s a privilege to be able to float in the water alongside sea life, looking down on spectacular coral and finding yourself magically surrounded by colorful fish. But with that freedom comes great responsibility, as Peter Parker’s gentle Uncle Ben would say. Coral is very fragile. It’s battered daily by currents, and sometimes severely damaged by hurricanes. But its greatest enemy is humanity. Whether it’s monstrous oil spills, boat engines, or the fins on your feet, coral is easily damaged and takes years to grow back. We were mortified on this snorkeling trip in La Parguera, Puerto Rico, to see our fellow snorkelers -- AND our guides -- standing on the reefs and kicking them with their snorkel fins. The dive shop, Paradise Divers, gave no instruction on reef safety or how to snorkel before the boat launched, when many of our fellow snorkelers were clearly inexperienced. The trip leader also picked up sea creatures and put them in participants' hands, a huge no-no! So we decided we needed to make sure our Messy Suitcase friends are educated about reef safety and snorkeling practices. Don’t be part of the problem! Visit our blog to learn how to snorkel without damaging coral or hurting sea creatures, at https://messysuitcase.com/index.php/2022/03/09/snorkeling-safety-tips/.

Thursday, March 10, 2022

Finding the Elusive Guaniquilla Tunnel


One of the items on Bob’s Cabo Rojo bucket list was finding the Túnel de Guaniquilla (Guaniquilla Tunnel). We had both seen tourist accounts on TripAdvisor and other websites about how horrendously difficult it is to find, and mixed reviews on whether the search was worth it. But Bob was determined. It turns out that these people were making the mistake of seeking it as a drive-by tourist attraction. So imagine our delight when we decided to hike in Punta Guaniquilla Nature Reserve, and Lisa spotted the tunnel on the AllTrails app map!

Read the entire blog and enjoy pictures at https://messysuitcase.com/index.php/2022/03/08/guaniquilla-tunnel/.

Wednesday, March 9, 2022

Snorkeling Safety Tips — for You AND the Reefs!

 Snorkeling is one of the most inspiring activities you can do. It’s a privilege to be able to float in the water alongside sea life, looking down on spectacular coral and finding yourself magically surrounded by colorful fish. 

But with that freedom comes great responsibility, as Peter Parker’s gentle Uncle Ben would say. Coral is very fragile. It’s battered daily by currents, and sometimes severely damaged by hurricanes. But its greatest enemy is humanity. Whether it’s monstrous oil spills, boat engines, or the fins on your feet, coral is easily damaged and takes years to grow back. 

So don’t be part of the problem, and don't damage the coral!

How to take care of the reefs



Wear reef-safe sunscreen: Use reef-safe sunscreen so that you don’t put chemicals in the water that can hurt the coral. Learn more at savethereef.org/about-reef-save-sunscreen.html

Maintain safe distance: Do not swim too close or touch the underwater flora and fauna.

Watch your feet: Don’t step on or kick the coral because it can destroy their growth.

Follow directions: Always follow your snorkeling guide’s instructions whenever you are in the water.

Avoid contact with marine life: Never feed, touch or remove seawater animals or plants.

Swim well: By swimming well, you will be able to control your movement underwater and not step on the coral reef. If you’re not a strong swimmer or haven’t snorkeled before, wear a life vest.

Other tips: Always make sure that your snorkeling gear is adequate and comfortable.

Support the conservation project in the area you are snorkeling. We joined the Rincon chapter of Surfrider.com.

Info for this posting came from "Snorkeling tips without damaging coral reef" in the Jakarta Post.

Photo from https://snorkelaroundtheworld.com/2018/07/safe-snorkeling-10-tips-for-your/

Tuesday, March 8, 2022

Climbing Gozalandia Waterfalls


Climbing Gozalandia Waterfalls

Wear good, non-slippery water shoes and a bathing suit if you decide to visit Gozalandia Falls, because you will not be able to keep from jumping into the enticing pool at  the foot of this huge waterfall! The main waterfall is truly amazing, at least 50 feet tall, and there are several places where you can climb up and jump in (at your own risk). Or just swim in the pool at the bottom, watching fish swim around your feet.

There is a cement sidewalk and stairs to lead you to the main falls and several above, plus you can just walk in the creekbed.

The drive to get to Gozalandia on narrow, winding mountain roads is not for the faint of heart, which is the only reason you might consider paying a guide to take you. Otherwise, just set out on your own and navigate carefully! It’s about 1 1/2 from San Juan in San Sebastien.

The gate is open from 10 AM-6 PM, and there is a $10 charge for parking. Go early to avoid the crowds, though the community feel of lots of people watching each other swim and jump has its own appeal. Make sure you take time to enjoy a drink and snack at the end of the day in the little restaurant by the parking lot, which overlooks a green pond populated by turtles.

Be aware that the falls can be dangerous if there’s a lot of rain, so use caution and common sense.

LINKS

All the info you need about the falls can be found at PuertoRico Day Trips

Map

Sunday, March 6, 2022

Runaway Cellphone: Rescuing Lisa's Flying Galaxy

When Lisa tripped and her cellphone flew out of her hand from the railing of our sixth-floor roof garden, bounced off a vinyl awning, and arced out across a high concrete fence into the deserted lot next store, we had to go bushwhacking to retrieve it.
Miraculously, it emerged unscathed!

Thursday, March 3, 2022

Coral-Covered Piers and Undersea Wrecks: Snorkeling Crashboat Beach


Crashboat Beach has something for everyone -- a gentle surf that beckons children in donut floats as much as adults drinking pina coladas, shady areas for relaxing, warm sand for sunbathing, a fascinating old pier jutting out into the water that teens love to jump off, food trucks with pinchos (kebabs) and smoothies, and amazing sunset views. But what Lisa found most interesting was UNDER the water!

Tuesday, March 1, 2022

We Went Too Far! Lost in the Cueva del Viento


Our exciting hike into the Cueva del Viento (Cave of the Wind) took a potentially disastrous turn when we ventured too far into the pitch-black cave and couldn't find our way out.

We found ourselves grappling with very dark thoughts as we walked in endless circles, listening to bats screech overhead and willing our flashlights not to stop working, while we looked for anything familiar to help us escape the cave.

The Cueva del Viento is found at the end of a popular trail in Guajataca State Forest in the northwestern town of Isabela, Puerto Rico. If you go, make sure you take a good flashlight, tell someone where you are going, and don’t go in too deep.

We thought the rickety stairs down into the cave were the dangerous part.

We were wrong.

LINK:

Cueva del Viento