We visited three morbid museums that reflect a certain
obsession with death and torture in Guanajuato, Mexico.
El Museo de las Momias de Guanajuato (The Mummy Museum)
The one that attracts the most tourists is El Museo de lasMomias de Guanajuato, or the Mummy Museum of Guanajuato. This underground museum tucked into a corner
of the old city displays scores of naturally mummified bodies found
to be in surprisingly good shape when they were disinterred to make room for
new bodies in the cemetery above.
The mummies were discovered in the late 1800's after
the government instituted a perpetual burial tax on the cemetery. If the
families of the buried did not pay, the bodies of their loved ones were
exhumed. It was during this process of evicting the dead for back taxes that
the mummies were discovered, beautifully preserved.
After exhumation, the mummies were stored in an ossuary
beneath the cemetery, where they are displayed today. Each mummy has a tag with
a little information about them and theories on how they died. Many of
them are still wearing the clothes they were buried in.
The most interesting to me was the mummy pair of a mother
and her unborn child, advertised by the museum as the smallest mummy in the
world.
 |
| Mama |
 |
| Baby |
In addition to the mummies, the place is full of
existential quotes such as the following:
"Man must open himself to death if he wants to open himself to life.
The cult to life is also cult to death.
A civilization that denies death ends up denying life. "
--Octavio Paz
La Casa de Los
Lamentos
(The House of Wailing)
La Casa de Los Lamentos is a cheesy House
of Horrors located in a historic 18th-century mansion where serial
murders occurred in the 1890s and early 1900s. The
story goes that the owner, Tadeo Fulgencio Mejia, was obsessed with trying to
contact his dead wife, Constanza, and committed an unknown number of murders as
human sacrifices to perform rituals in an attempt to reach her. Human bones
were supposedly found in the mansion’s basement.
The museum uses red and flickering lighting, slammed doors
and other sound effects, a Hitchcock-style video in a picture frame, and
ghostly holograms to scare the BeJesus out of the unfortunate who walk in and
pay the 45 pesos admission. We stumbled upon it while exploring the Valenciana
neighborhood and it was a hoot!
But we were the ones wailing at the end, because we came out of the museum to a colossal downpour. We had walked half a mile down the hill from Casa
Estrella and had to wait out the tormenta before we could walk back. But what a diverting hour or two!
El Museo Casa del
Purgatorio
(The Purgatory House Museum)
We stumbled upon El Museo Casa del Purgatorio, tucked innocuously
into an alley near the Templo de San Cayetano (Saint Cayetano Church), while
walking around the little village of Valenciana, down the road from our
lodging. Aryk and Lexie were with us for this exploration of a museum that
turned out to be about methods of torture and killing during the 18th
century Spanish Inquisition in Mexico, when people were persecuted and killed for
being Catholic.
Methods of torture we experienced through our guide
included a spinning wheel into excrement (sort of an extreme sort of water
boarding), the stretching table, the guillotine, and of course the gallows. The
museum even featured a small cemetery with a replica of the tomb of El Pipila,
the hero of the Mexican Independence movement – despite the fact that this
iconic miner hero wasn’t even caught and tortured, but apparently lived to the ripe old age of 83 before dying in his hometown of San Miguel de Allende.
This museum was so gruesome that Lex had to leave and
waited outside. The rest of us enjoyed it in a perverse way.
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