Another Elusive Puerto Rican Cave: Cueva de las Golondrinas

It took some digging to find the well-hidden Cueva de las Golandrinas (Cave of the Swallows), on the jagged coast near Arecibo. We made a wrong turn before getting some guidance from the ancient, toothless man with the machete to whom we had paid a few bucks "propina" (tip) to watch our car on the dirt road.

Tip: If someone is on the roadside or has a yard nearby and offers to let you park, or watch your car, for maybe $5, do it. It's good manners and pragmatic, and the cops in Puerto Rico are pretty vicious about writing tickets to unsuspecting drivers for infractions such as parking with your car facing the wrong direction, or parking with any part of your car blocking the roadway.

This man, whose Spanish was almost unintelligible, likely used that machete to clear branches on the roadside so our car wouldn't get scratched. He was lean and brown and muscular, despite appearing to be well into his 80s. He kept an eye on our vehicle while we were hiking, and kindly showed us the hidden trailhead without us even asking. 

Then on to find the cave! It was very difficult to find, as the trails are not well marked. We were halfway there when we finally chanced upon a sign, the only one sign, plunked in the middle of a meadow. If you’re going to do this hike, wear water shoes and a swimsuit, because you have to wade into the water to get a clear view of the cave. It's gorgeous, and the beach is lovely. Definitely worth the walk.

LINKS:

Cueva de las Golondrinas

Map

Alltrails Hike (The cave is at the very western end of this hike.)

 

Northcoast Puerto Rico Tourist Attractions

We drove west from Isabela to explore the Cara del Indio (Face of the Indian), Cueva del Indio (Cave of the Indian) and anything else we stumbled upon, including Taino and Spanish ruins, ocean arches and one disgraced explorer.

Read all about it in our blog. 

LINKS

Cara del Indio: https://www.puertoricotravelguide.com/cara-del-indio-mabodomaca/
Cueva del Indio: https://www.discoverpuertorico.com/profile/cueva-del-indio-arecibo/8721
Ermita San Antonio de Padua de la Tuna: https://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/san-antonio-de-la-tuna/
Christopher Columbus History: https://www.history.com/news/columbus-day-controversy

The Museo de las Americas: An Undiscovered Gem in Old San Juan

We had a goal in mind when we visited the Museo de las Americas in Old San Juan: to find a mask created by Miguel Caraballo, the legendary carnival maskmaker from Ponce. We had commissioned one of his gorgeous vejigante masks in 1995 and then again this past year. (A vejigante is a folkloric character in Puerto Rican festival celebrations, mainly seen during Carnival time.) Caraballo, whose business has expanded to include his artisan son Miguel the 2nd and marketer grandson Miguel the 3rd, is a legend in the maskmaking world, with a mask in this museum as well as one in the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC. The mask in the Smithsonian is not currently on display in the Museum of American History, but we found his mask high on a wall in the Museum of the Americas! We also found a lot of colorful, fantastical, fascinating art that captivated us for several hours. The Museum of the Americas is a non-profit institution founded in 1992 to “offer a synoptic vision of the history and culture of the American continent, emphasizing Puerto Rico, through our exhibition programs and cultural activities.” It’s located near El Morro.

LINKS

Info: Museum of the Americas - museolasamericas.org/ Miguel Caraballo - https://www.facebook.com/ Map: Museo De Las Americas, Calle Beneficencia, San Juan

The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Part 3

 Messy Suitcase Restaurant Recommendations

Although we have expounded upon the value of being adventurous and experimenting with cuisine, we also understand that your time on the island is limited, and you might want to be pointed toward some proven winners. So here are Messy Suitcase’s recommendations for the best places we have eaten on the island. But remember, everyone has different taste.

Food Truck Parks

San Juan: Miramar Food Truck Park in San Juan.

This park in a chic urban neighbrohood has an excellent beer place, Greek, Chinese/Latin fusion, vegan, frappes, Mexican, and more. On weekends, enjoy live music.
Info: facebook.com/MiramarFoodTruckPark
Map: 1006 Ave. Ponce de Leon 00907 San Juan, Puerto Rico

Luquillo: Playa La Pared

Food trucks set up shop on weekend nights across from the beach at La Pared in Luquillo. There are only two or three, including the taco truck Mi Parcela, but they are excellent.
Info: No website
Map: Calle Herminio Diaz Navarro, Luquillo, Puerto Rico

Rio Grande: Pa'l Yunque Food Park

We found this on the way home from hiking El Yunque. I enjoyed a falafel while Bob had a burger. The food park was small, accessible, cheap and delicious. Nice shelter from a rainstorm, too. Perfect end of a hiking day.
Info: facebook.com/palyunquefoodpark/
Map: 40 PR-955 00721 Rio Grande, Puerto Rico

Vieques: Rincon del Sabor

We only ate at the coffee place here, which serves up a good breakfast and the best shakes I have ever had. There are other food trucks with traditional Puerto Rican food, but they were closed due to COVID.
Info: facebook.com/rincondelsaborvqs
Map: Carretera 200 km 0.6, Florida, Vieques, Puerto Rico, 00765

Luquillo: The Kioskos

The Luquillo Kioskos (food kiosks) aren’t a food truck park, but a long row of around 60 family-owned kiosks selling food, drinks, and souvenirs, located on a service road just north of Route 3, near the Luquillo Public Beach. Right behind them is a slightly rundown beach that locals love to hang out in, blasting music and jet skiing. Tourists often get it confused with Balneario (Pubic Beach) Luquillo, which is just east but still walking distance to the kioskos for lunch. The kioskos themselves are pretty rundown and some are closed, but don’t let their appearance discourage you from having a truly Puerto Rican dining experience. Most have outdoor dining in the rear with views of the Atlantic Ocean. Avoid overrated La Parrilla Restaurant on the west end, which attracts diners with its large parking lot and aggressive advertising, but provides nothing special in service, ambience or food quality. Our favorite restaurant here is Revolution Pizza.
Info: puertoricodaytrips.com/uquillo-kiosks
Map: goo.gl/maps/4rkEoCWX2h22zduJ9

Restaurants

Here are some favorites from around the island.

Aguadilla: Cinco

Creative Caribbean cuisine, served up in a stylish atmosphere. Pricy and elegant, with excellent cocktails. The menu is unique and the food is delicious. You would find a place like this on New York’s Upper East Side.
Info: facebook.com/cincorestaurant/
Map: KM. 9.2 PR-110, Aguadilla Pueblo, Aguadilla 00603

Fajardo: Las Vistas Cafe at Las Croabas

This restaurant served up the best meal I had in eastern Puerto Rico. Get reservations, as it’s very popular and COVID careful, even though you are dining on a rooftop with 360° views of Las Croabas Bay, Seven Seas Beach, and the islands of Vieques and Culebra. The owner, Gladys, treats every customer like her best friend. The food is exquisite. Breakfast, lunch and brunch only.
Info: lasvistascafepr.com/
Map: goo.gl/maps/uVZ2jgMv7EFj7a138

Pinky's in Condado

This is a lovely little breakfast discovery, but forget about getting in on a weekend day. There’s also one on Calle Loiza.
Info: facebook.com/Pinkys-112452892183010
Map: 1351 1351 Ashford Ave., Condado, Puerto Rico

Manatí: Pollo Costero BBQ

Another roadside discovery. The friendly, English-fluent proprietor let us pick a la carte whatever looked interesting in the food case, and charged hardly anything. The rotisserie chicken was mouthwatering; we speculated it could be as fresh as the chicken roadkill we had seen on the way there. (Just kidding.)

Info: facebook.com/pollocosterobbq
Map: Carretera 685 00674 Manati, Puerto Rico

Cabo Rojo: Annie’s Place

Who cares if the food is any good? Which it is, but that’s not the point. The location right next to glorious Combate Beach is the bomb, and the sunsets are not to be believed. The menu is seafood, seafood and more seafood, with the choice of the same sauces we saw at every other seafood restaurant. The drinks are great. Did I mention the spectacular sunsets?
Info: facebook.com/Annies-Place-Combate-Beach-Cabo-Rojo-1552167661708533/
Map: Playa El Combate Beach, PR-3301, Boquerón, 00622

Cabo Rojo: Coco Loco BBQ Smokehouse

Great BBQ in unassuming outdoor setting. One-woman show.
Info: No website.
Map: Carr 102 km 15.9, Cabo Rojo, 00623

Cabo Rojo: El Bohio, Joyuda

Joyuda is a fisherman’s village with a bunch of excellent seafood restaurants to choose from. We chose El Bohio because of its large back deck,. Which faces the ocean and provides the best sunset views. A gang of enormous gray fish hangs out in the shallow water right by the ready to jump on sfood craps the staff throws, which provides excellent entertainment. Families love this place. Probably any restaurant in this town would be excellent.

Info: facebook.com/elbohio.restaurant, puertoricodaytrips.com/joyuda-seafood/
Map: Carretera 102 km.14.1, Cabo Rojo, 00623

Luquillo: Boardriders Surf Bar and Grill

This was our favorite restaurant while living in Luquillo. It provides two levels of outdoor seating, all with views of the crashing surf at La Pared Beach. Expect excellent passion fruit mojitos, healthy vegetarian options, and really friendly staff. Live entertainment on the weekends features sounds of roots, reggae, jazz, rumba and more.
Info: boardriderssurfbar.com/
Map: US, 25 Calle Miguel Veve Calzada, Luquillo, 00773

Culebra: Dinghy Dock Restaurant

This popular place right on the water offers up outstanding Bushwhackers and excellent American food. It’s popular; come early or be prepared to wait in line.

Info: facebook.com/Dinghy-Dock-Culebra-970553193101653
Map: 372 Calle Fulladoza 00775 Culebra, Puerto Rico

Up next … Finding New York-Quality Pizza in Puerto Rico

Surviving the Hike to Survival Beach

We survived the hike to Survival Beach in Aguadilla, Puerto Rico, but never made it onto the sand! After navigating jagged volcanic rocks and boulders, sweating through steep ascents and descents, picking over roots and peering into caves, and dancing around high tide on the sand, we found the actual Survival Beach to be inaccessible, cut off by the sea. Still, the hike was lovely, and the rugged vistas glorious!

Whale Watching in Rincon

We are living in western Puerto Rico at the same time (January through March) that humpback whales are migrating, mating and birthing in the ocean at this end of the island, in the channel between us and the Dominican Republic. So we decided to book a whale watching trip. We chose Taino Divers out of Rincon, who operate a two-hour sunset cruise from Black Eagle Beach. They don’t promise you’ll see whales–they are wild animals, after all–but we saw plenty, while also enjoying a choice of cold beverages, from water and soda to rum punch!

We could have swam in the 1,000-foot-deep ocean if we had thought to wear our suits. Next time! Maybe we’ll even be able to hear whales singing underwater.

Humpback whales are mammals the size of a school bus who live in the ocean. They’re called humpbacks because of the shape they take when they dive deep into the water after popping up to the surface.

These whales hunt and feed up north in the summer, then head south to warmer waters and fast during the winter, living off their blubber while they focus on migration and mating. They travel in packs called pods, so we saw several groups swimming together. Our guide said when we see the flippers, that means the whale is diving deep, so it’s time to look for them to emerge elsewhere.

The cost was $64 pp plus tax and tip. Definitely worth it for an awesome experience! We’ll definitely be going back with our son Gavin when he visits next week

Facts about humpbacks from livescience.com:

Humpback whales are not the biggest whales—that's the blue whale. Still, humpbacks can grow to 60 feet (18 meters) long, and they can weigh a whopping 40 tons (about half the size of a blue whale), according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Their flippers can grow up to 16 feet long, which is the largest appendage in the world. Their tails are also massive and grow up to 18 feet (5.5 m) wide. Like most whales, females are larger than males.

Enjoy some humpback whale pictures on our blog, messysuitcase.com.

LINKS:

Taino Divers: https://www.tainodivers.com/

Humpback Whale Info: https://www.livescience.com/58464-humpback-whale-facts.html

The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Part 2

What is Puerto Rican Food, Anyway?

A lot of people expect Puerto Rican food to be like Mexican, with nachos and guacamole and burritos. But it’s a completely unique cuisine that evolved over centuries from the blending of Spanish, Taino, West Indian and American influences with the vegetables, fruits and meats available for consumption on the island.

Traditional Puerto Rican food includes a large selection of fried dishes, called frituras, often sold from roadside kiosks, and stuffed breads. Many are deep-fried. Here are a few stalwarts:

• Alcapurrias–Yucca or plantain-based fritters filled with ground beef, lobster, crab, or shrimp.
• Bacalaitos–Deep-fried, crunchy codfish fritters.
• Piononos–Deep-fried sweet plantain appetizers stuffed with seasoned meat or seafood.
• Rellenos de Papa - Potatoes stuffed with ground beef and deep fried to create a crispy outer layer.
• Arepas–fried bread stuffed with anything from cheese to chicken or seafood.
• Plaintain–a green banana that is used in cooking many, many dishes in Puerto Rico.
• Mofongo–fried, then mashed and spiced, plantain, stuffed with meat or seafood and then covered in sauce.
• 
  Empanadillas and Pastelillos–pastry pockets filled with seafood, meat or cheese. Empanadillas are bigger.
• Fried Cheese–Lightly fried cheese squares served with guava sauce. Lisa’s favorite.
• Cheese Balls–Breaded, deep-fried cheese fritters.
• Pinchos–outstanding chicken or pork kebabs with BBQ sauce.
• Quesito—Breakfast pastry filled with cream cheese and sometimes fruit.

    There are many other dishes. These two articles share even more information about Puerto Rican cuisine.

Top 10 Puerto Rico 

Speaking Latino 

Coastal Food

Along the coast, traditional food means freshly caught fish–dorado, red snapper, salmon, cod, or octopus or lobster, served with rice and perhaps beans. Diners have a choice of traditional sauces that seem to be found at all seafood restaurants on PR’s west coast: criollo (tomato, onion and peppers), butter, and creamy garlic. Oysters and mussels are also big, and can be consumed fresh from the sea at roadside stands in beach towns.

City Food

Cities in Puerto Rico are as cosmopolitan as any, so dinner in San Juan or Ponce or Mayagüez could just as easily mean Spanish (remember, Christopher Columbus and the first white settlers came from Spain), Mexican, Argentinean, Brazilian, Japanese, Italian, Thai, or any other cuisine. “Traditional” Puerto Rican food in a more upscale restaurant will be less greasy and add new flavors. Be adventurous!

Up Next … The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Pt. 3: Our Restaurant Recommendations

Read Part 1