Saturday, April 30, 2022

Touring Hacienda Muñoz, the Closest Coffee Hacienda to San Juan

We took a tour of Hacienda Muñoz in San Lorenzo, a half an hour up the mountains from San Juan. Its coffee has won the Best Coffee People’s Choice Award at the Puerto Rico Coffee and Chocolate Expo for three years running. Is it really that good?

The tour focused on the coffee-growing industry and its history, as well as the methods used to grow, process, and roasting coffee. The detail was sometimes excruciating, as we stood on the hillside in the hot sun listening to our impassioned guide go one and on and on.

While small, it’s a much larger operation than Hacienda Iluminada, the small hacienda we toured last fall which focused its tour on sustainable practices and integration into the forest. Here, we saw neat rows of coffee plants planted in full sun. In addition to its coffee fields, Hacienda Muñoz operates a small café, where we enjoyed fresh turkey sandwiches on baguettes, and a larger restaurant.

Lisa bought a bag of medium-roast coffee, and it was indeed exemplary.

The cost for the tour was $20, or $10 for kids and those over 60. It included a tasting.

Links

Info

Discover Puerto Rico Article

Map 


 

Tuesday, April 26, 2022

We Were Here 14 Years Ago! Arecibo Observatory after the Crash (And Before)


Our family visited Arecibo Observatory to see the 1,000-foot radio-telescope constructed in a sinkhole in the karst region of western Puerto Rico during a vacation in April 2008. The radio-telescope and its visitors center offered a fascinating exploration of space for my two science-minded kids. Naturally, they don’t remember it all today. But Bob and I do! That’s why, when we heard that the colossal radio-telescope had collapsed last year, we booked tickets as soon as the facility reopened to see how it looks now.

Visit our blog to see photos and learn more about the observatory and the crash. 

LINKS

Friday, April 22, 2022

Sneaking into Vivo Beach Club on Carolina Beach

While trying to enter Ocean Lab Brewing Company from the beach at Carolina, Puerto Rico, we were stopped by a burly security guard. He told us we couldn’t walk through this private club named Vivo, and pointed us around the building to the street side to enter the restaurant from the parking lot with the rest of the lowly non-members.

Well, exc-u-u-u-u-se me! (Fellow Boomers will recognize that reference.)

Our table on the third-floor balcony at Ocean Lab gave us a bird’s eye view of the Vivo Beach Club, so we googled it. It calls itself “the hottest private beach club in town.” You can join, or pay $40 for a day pass. This video shows you what you get.

After lunch, Bob tried to sneak through the club again to get out to the beach. Despite putting on his very best I-belong-here-don’t-mess-with-me act, he was stopped by the alert security guards and rerouted to the pedestrian exit. Foiled again!

Links

Info:

Vivo Beach Club

Ocean Lab Brewing Company

Map

Wednesday, April 20, 2022

Exploring the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, England


When we took a Thames River Cruise from London to Greenwich to see the Royal Meridien, we discovered the National Maritime Museum, one of a quartet of the Royal Museums in Greenwich. The others are the Royal Observatory Greenwich, where the Meridien resides, and two others that will have to wait till next time: the historic ship Cutty Sark and the Queen's House.

The National Maritime Museum takes you on an exploration of British naval history and Imperial arrogance, with a ship simulator, nautical oddities and interactive games. We loved the giant message in a bottle and the colorful exhibit of ship figureheads. Admission was free.

What a fun discovery! Greenwich deserves more than a day.

LINKS

Info

Museum 

CityCruises

Thames RiverSightseeing

Uber Boat

Map

 

Monday, April 18, 2022

Scryer Rum in Old San Juan: Missed Opportunities


As Messy Suitcase makes the rounds of rum distilleries across Puerto Rico, we discovered a new boutique one in Old San Juan and decided to pay a visit. Scryer Rum Barrelhouse & Rooftop is a small-batch, pot-distilled sipping rum distillery in a gorgeous historic building.

“Sipping” is industry-speak for expensive – the good stuff you drink on its own, as opposed to the cheap stuff you pour into a cocktail.

Scryer was founded by a couple of buddies shortly before the pandemic. Garrett, who led our tour, started his alcohol education in whiskey and brought that expertise to rum distilling. But while the partners have created a delicious sipping rum, a lovely bar and a delightful rooftop, they have a lot to learn about running a good tour! They missed out on a lot of opportunities. Find out why in this video.

(Sorry in advance for the loud music in the background – they conduct the tour right next to the noisy bar.)

Links

Info: https://scryerrum.com/

Map: https://g.page/scryer-rum?share

Saturday, April 16, 2022

Museo de San Juan: No Video Allowed

Museo de San Juan: No Video Allowed

It was hard to find the Museo de San Juan, and once we got it in, they made making this video even harder: No photos or videos! 

Fine. We enjoyed the air conditioning on a hot day.

But it was free, and worth 20 minutes of your time, if you're near El Morro and can find your way in.

There were some silver religious artifacts in one room, and old maps and historical photos and art in the second gallery.

That's it.

Links:

Info 
Map

 

Wednesday, April 13, 2022

Snorkeling Buck Island, St. Croix. Four Thumbs Up!

No visit to St. Croix is complete without a trip to its crown jewel of underwater glory: Buck Island.

Located one and a half miles from the dock at Christiansted across the turquoise sea, Buck Island Reef National Monument offers over 19,000 acres of both submerged and dry lands that are pristine and perfect for nature exploration. The only way to get there is on a National Park Service-approved boat tour. We chose to take a half-day catamaran trip with Big Beard Adventures.

Hiking

There are hiking trails on Buck Island will take you through a tropical dry forest to the hilltop; we didn’t have time to do this. (Take the full-day tour if you want to hike.)

Beaching

But we did have time to visit the beach, where we watched gray pelicans and magnificent frigatebirds fish while novices were back at the boat learning how to snorkel. Then the Big Beard crew honked the horn for us the board the boat, and took us around to the other side of the island.

Snorkeling

We pulled on our masks and fins and jumped in with the first group and snorkeled for an hour and a half above an outstanding reef teeming with colorful fish and majestic elkhorn coral.

Drinking

On the way back to Christiansted, we enjoyed punch made with St. Croix’s own Mutiny Vodka (we will visit their distillery on our next visit to the island) while visiting with our new friends, Jane and Rick from St. Louis! (Jane originally hails from Adelaide, Australia, and both are scuba divers.)

Messy Suitcase heartily recommends Big Beard’s Adventure Tours. Four thumbs up! The captain made the safety instructions hilarious; his crew did a great job of getting to know every participant’s needs and aspirations for the trip; and they were all extremely capable – and fun! (And yes, all the men did indeed sport big beards, though the new guy’s was still a bit scraggly.)

LINKS

Buck Island Reef: https://www.nps.gov/buis/index.htm

Big Beard’s Adventure Tours: https://www.bigbeards.com/

St. Croix Activities: https://www.vinow.com/stcroix/activities/

The Queen Conch: https://www.vinow.com/blog/nature/the-queen-conch/

Maps

Buck Island: https://www.nps.gov/buis/planyourvisit/maps.htm

Big Beard Tours: https://goo.gl/maps/26mvdQttsbnfGuBr5

Monday, April 11, 2022

We Ziplined Through a Rain Forest!

We spent a morning flying across the rainforest canopy at JungleQui Zipline Park in El Yunque National Forest. I don’t know which was more spectacular – the adrenaline rush of the ziplines as we flew from tree to tree like Tarzan, the incredible views of the lush flora and the river far below, or the sparkling personalities of our tour guides.

There was a little bit of hiking involved, some on steep trail, so if you do this, you need to be in reasonable physical condition. Make sure to wear good shoes. We wished we had realized we could carry water bottles, because it took 2 ½ hours long to navigate 11 ziplines and one exhilarating rappel. And it got hot!

We drove to Junglequi, but they also operate a service that will pick you up at your hotel, if you don’t rent a car or prefer not to drive.

Across from the parking lot at the entrance of Junglequi, our local friend Julio, who operates Rosario Tours, took us down a trail to a locals spot by the river, where you can jump off a rock into the water or even swing out on a rope.! If you’re ever looking for a personalized tour of any part of Puerto Rico, Julio Flores is your man!  

LINKS

JungleQui

Rosario Tours

Map

 

Saturday, April 9, 2022

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico (Museum of Art of Puerto Rico)


Sunburned after too many beach days in Puerto Rico? Need a break from the relentless sun? Head indoors for an afternoon in the air-conditioned Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico (Museum of Art of Puerto Rico)!

This museum is a beautiful, modern facility with 24 exhibition galleries wandering through 130,000 square feet on four floors. The mostly contemporary pieces are distributed between a historic building in the west wing, the former municipal hospital, and an addition in the east wing.

The Puerto Rican art to be found inside is astonishing. All the pieces are labeled and interpreted in both Spanish and English. The sculpture garden behind, in the middle of an urban neighborhood of theatres, restaurants, and office buildings, is also a sublime discovery. Don’t miss it!

When you’re done strolling through this cultural wonder in the Santurce neighborhood of San Juan, relax for an hour with an artisanal cocktail at Chimera rooftop bar, half a block away.

LINKS

Info:

Museum - https://www.mapr.org/es

Chimera - https://chimera-rooftop.business.site/

Maps:

Museum - https://goo.gl/maps/yufDPpKkF5MV8CMAA

Chimera – https://goo.gl/maps/EgeQ7k1T6hPSVNAe7

Wednesday, April 6, 2022

Messy Suitcase Mini-Tour: Condado


The Condado area of San Juan has a lot to offer, for both the mostly-professional crowd who lives here, and the tourists who come to Puerto Rico and stay in one of the many hotels facing the Atlantic Ocean. Let's take a stroll through the neighborhood! Map: https://goo.gl/maps/Fy847dSUadoAbVnB8

 

Sunday, April 3, 2022

Braving Camuy Caverns, and a Special Surprise!

No trip to Puerto Rico is complete without going deep underground to explore Camuy Caverns, officially known as Rio Camuy Cave Park. It’s located in the karst mountains of northwestern Puerto Rico, where the towns of Camuy, Hatillo, and Lares come together. It was fascinating to see what nature wrought over millions of years, as well as the huge impact of Hurricane Maria.

Make sure you stay till the end: There is surprise bonus material you won’t want to miss!

LINKS:

Info: https://www.discoverpuertorico.com/profile/rio-camuy-cave-park/9932

Map: https://goo.gl/maps/955aGxVZb4CqgahHA

Friday, April 1, 2022

Messy Suitcase Mini-Tour: Discovering Luquillo


Two of the spots most often recommended to tourists visiting Puerto Rico are Luquillo Beach and the Kioskos. Time to take a tour!

Trouble in Paradise, Part 2: Traveling with a Pet

We travel with a very sweet cat, Kaylee. She’s a petite Maine Coon, very affectionate but also very nervous. She technically belongs to our oldest child, Aryk, but as Aryk is still finishing grad school in England, Kaylee travels with us.


And she doesn’t like it.

It’s not easy for us, either. But we wouldn’t have it any other way.

Cats and Planes

Flying with a cat companion is a logistical challenge. Here are the many steps:

·      

You have to call the airline to reserve the cat’s spot, hoping that she won’t exceed their quota of pets per plane.

  • You have to pay a fee; in the case of Southwest, it’s $95 each way.
  • You have to purchase a carrier that fulfills their requirements.
  • Then you have to tote her all over the airport, make sure the skittish kitty doesn’t have a panic attack, and get her through the security line without her bolting. (Hint: Make sure she’s on a leash so she can’t run, but since she can still shred you in a panic, also ask for a private screening. That’s where they take you and the cat into a small room and then take her carrier away to be x-rayed.)
  • During the flight, you have to listen to her cry from inside her carrier between your feet (so comfortable). If you’re lucky, the middle seat will be clear and you can put her there instead. We have an expandable carrier, and it greatly reduces her anxiety to be able to spread out.
  • During transfers between planes, you have to find a place for her to do her business in the portable litter box you packed (with the litter that made security red-flag your backpack as a security risk), and give her some food and water, all of which she will ignore.

In addition, to bring Kaylee to Puerto Rico, we had to get an international health certificate, which entailed finding a specific kind of vet and paying $240 for the paperwork, an extra exam, and extra shots. And then the authorities in PR didn’t even ask to see any of it! We have done this twice. I spoke to a dog owner here who did it for three dogs, at much greater expense because of their large size, and no one asked to see their paperwork, either. I know if we skip this step, though, the authorities will ask for it and send her back to the States.

Alleviating Kaylee’s anxiety about flying is crucial, so we got gabapentin, an anti-anxiety medicine, from the vet, which has helped Kaylee endure the terrifying airport screenings and long periods stuck in the carrier. Usually. It does wear out, though. You can tell because she starts thrashing and meowing. A friend who operates a doggie daycare suggested I play a calming playlist from Amazon music. This works miracles! I just place the phone on her carrier to act as her private concert hall, and she is calmed instantly. 

Managing Feline Anxiety While Living Like a Nomad

Cats like routine, and life is always changing when you travel. We manage Kaylee’s stress as best we can, but there’s a limit to what we can do. Sometimes local cats meow outside the windows at night, or come up to the door during the day. Humans shove her into carriers with no warning, and sometimes leave her there for hours while we travel in cars or planes. Food on the road is inconsistent, depending on what’s available where we are loving at the time. The environment changes monthly, when we move to a new condo. (This is part of the reason we bought the house in Cabo Rojo.) Kaylee’s buddy Ellie, our Russian Blue who lives at college with Gavin, may be in the house for months (over summer break), and then, just when they have finally adjusted to each other (again), will abruptly disappear with no explanation. 

Once, while living in Mexico City, we put Kaylee in boarding while we took a short jaunt to Acapulco. We had to return early due to COVID, but the vet was calling anyway, saying our kitty was freaked out by another cat who wouldn’t stop yowling. We arrived to find her hiding in the kitty playroom, her body tucked deeply into the bottom tire in a stack.


Kaylee was recently diagnosed with alopecia, after she licked all the hair off one of her furry legs. The vet said this could be caused by fleas – and told us all cats in PR should be regularly treated for fleas and heartworm – by food allergies, or by stress. We are treating her for fleas, and we’ll test for food allergies this summer if her symptoms persist. But in all likelihood, it’s anxiety. So, we make her life as easy as possible, give her tons of attention, staying home some days just to provide a lap for her to nap in, and keeping up her routines as much as we can (within limits).

Finding Vet Services for Pets

Finding vets to care for cats in a place where you don't speak the language well is a constant challenge. Their front claws must be trimmed regularly, they must be treated to prevent fleas and heartworm, and sometimes they get sick. The upside is that it's usually less expensive anywhere else than in the States.

Our cat Equinox took ill a week into our Mexico City stay in early 2020. We found a vet within walking distance whose convenient office we had noted while exploring the city, and rushed him there. Fortunately, one vet spoke English, and he got the city's best kitty cardiologist involved when it turned out our cat had hypertrophic cardiomyopathy. In humans, this condition is called "the widow maker" because often it's often undetected until the patient, usually a man, has a sudden fatal heart attack. Alas, the same was true for our dear Noxy. He was hospitalized but only lived through a weekend, and had to be put to sleep in the middle of the night when he became agitated and had trouble breathing.

But he got excellent care. We were called in, we brought Kaylee to say goodbye to her friend, the children were called, and it was as good a pt death experience as is possible, And the cost for that care and his subsequent cremation was a fraction of the cost for the same in the States.

Stress and Health

However, the stress of traveling and then moving to a mile-high city probably contributed to his demise, and this is why I am vigilant about managing Kaylee's stress. I hope the move to Cabo Rojo in winters will give her a more settled life. Alternating between two households should be much easier than adjusting to a new home every month! And when she finally moves in with her owner, our oldest child Aryk, we will probably stick to healing aid organizations care for all the stray cats in Puerto Rico

Meanwhile, whenever I sit down to use the computer, read a book, or watch TV, I lay Kaylee's favorite towel across my lap and call her name. She is here in an instant, ready to cuddle while I work. In fact, she is in my lap right now!

Because despite all the stress, the most important thing I can do for my traveling cat is give her love.